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Here is a quote from the Honda manual:
"Help assure your motorcycle's future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first 500Km (300 miles).
During this period, avoid full throttle starts and rapid acceleration."

I know people who have red-lined it from the first ride and never suffered a problem.
All engines are run at the factory and taken to the red line as part of their testing so it has already been there done that before it is put into the bike.
Take your pick, wring its neck or take it easy as Mr Honda says.
Have a read here:
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Personally I kept mine below 3/4 max revs for 300 miles then went all the way.
 

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Just remember it is not only the engine you are running on a new bike; also:
gearbox
tyres
brake disks
brake pads
All the parts that need bedding in
People give different views on engines being run in at the factory. It is all opinions and I have not yet seen a statement from any manufacturer to endorse this.
I assume all bikes are only tested at the factory to ensure they work: lights come on, engines fire up but no red lining!
I would say stick with what Mr Honda recommends
 

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Just remember it is not only the engine you are running on a new bike; also:
gearbox
tyres
brake disks
brake pads
All the parts that need bedding in
People give different views on engines being run in at the factory. It is all opinions and I have not yet seen a statement from any manufacturer to endorse this.
I assume all bikes are only tested at the factory to ensure they work: lights come on, engines fire up but no red lining!
I would say stick with what Mr Honda recommends
Yes, they do redline them before they sell an engine to the public.
Run it in the same way you plan to ride it.
 

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red lining an RR8 on the road!!! that will give you almost 100mph in 1st
maybe I should move to Herts.
sadly in my area getting above 70mph is a challenge in addition to police radar guns, helicopters now we have buckled & pot holed road surfaces.
Believe me it is hell
 

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Depends how much wheelspin you're getting :)
:rotfl: true....

red lining an RR8 on the road!!! that will give you almost 100mph in 1st
maybe I should move to Herts.
sadly in my area getting above 70mph is a challenge in addition to police radar guns, helicopters now we have buckled & pot holed road surfaces.
Believe me it is hell
Exactly! I suppose there are some A roads and the A1M where you could, if your licence can handle it.

But any half-decent roads are no-where close to 100mph roads (we only get half decent ones here, as for moving to Herts... I wouldn't bother!)
 

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Loads of different attitudes to running in.

All I can tell you mate, is I ran mine in as per the manual, and mine's not an oil drinker. I assume Mr Honda knows better than me.
 

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Loads of different attitudes to running in.

All I can tell you mate, is I ran mine in as per the manual, and mine's not an oil drinker. I assume Mr Honda knows better than me.

The oil-burning is nothing to do with how the engine is run in.
Mr Honda may know lots of things we don't but I'm not about to believe a word he says.
 

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I rebuilt my engine two summers ago. I did the hard break in, lots of hard accelerating and decelerating over and over. I've got over 5000kms on the engine since the rebuild. Over this past winter I had a look in my cylinders and I could still see cross hatching on the walls. There were no wear marks to be seen anywhere. What does that mean? I've heard one reason for the cross hatching is to help oil stay on the cylinder walls. If there is oil on the walls, how is the ring going to wear and seat?
 

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One of the main jobs of a good quality oil is exactly to always keep a lubricant film between the moving metal parts irrespective of cross hatching you are referring to.
I guess if you use a good synthetic oil, then the bedding in can take longer they generally provide a better barrier film. But I am not an expert in re building engines?
 

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I rebuilt my engine two summers ago. I did the hard break in, lots of hard accelerating and decelerating over and over. I've got over 5000kms on the engine since the rebuild. Over this past winter I had a look in my cylinders and I could still see cross hatching on the walls. There were no wear marks to be seen anywhere. What does that mean? I've heard one reason for the cross hatching is to help oil stay on the cylinder walls. If there is oil on the walls, how is the ring going to wear and seat?
The oil fills the valleys of the hatching so the rings can wear the peaks to get a perfect seal. As the peaks wear down the rings draw more of the oil from the valleys until a point of equilibrium provides the perfect amount of oil to prevent excessive wear of the rings (modern bores don't wear much at all).
 
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