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In total candor Jbird, this thing is pretty much a set-and-forget piece for me. I recall dialing in more slow speed damping than the default setting and left the high speed setting at default (Scotts' suggestion, at least until you're quite comfortable with the damper). The manual is very clear in terms of what adjustments get you what results. Play with it, go out for a ride, have a screwdriver with you, and you'll find the sweet spot in no time. Then, a few months down the road when somebody asks you what your settings are, you'll probably have forgotten just like me.
 

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JBird : For all of you that have the Scotts Damper, what settings are they at?

JBird  
I left the high-speed alone. I turn the low-speed up until I feel resistance at the bars. This way I think I'm getting the most protection with the least interference...

But what do I know?
 

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I just left mine at the factory settings, but turn the main dial (big one with pointer?) clockwise to the 6 o'clock setting for the track and back to the 12 o'clock position for the street. Not sure how everyone else's settings affect the damping, but I've pushed the bike hard while yanking on the bars (like coming onto the straight at Grattan) and no wobbles.
 

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I've left mine at the stock settings, or whatever the recommended initial settings are. Haven't had any issues on the street or track with 'em.
 

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Red Rider : I just left mine at the factory settings, but turn the main dial (big one with pointer?) clockwise to the 6 o'clock setting for the track and back to the 12 o'clock position for the street.  
The plastic pointer comes off so you have to see have many clicks out it is.
 

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Skully : Quote (Red Rider @ June 09 2003, 10:08am)I just left mine at the factory settings, but turn the main dial (big one with pointer?) clockwise to the 6 o'clock setting for the track and back to the 12 o'clock position for the street.  
The plastic pointer comes off so you have to see have many clicks out it is.
yeah, since the dial can come off, it can be clocked differently if it was put back on different after it was moved. Counting clicks is good.
 

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I like my Base valve on the stock setting (8 clicks CCW) with the arrow pointing dead ahead...If I am on crappy roads, I'll click it a notch or two CW and know where I am at.

I've never felt the need to change the High Speed or Sweep...

YMMV
 

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When I first got mine I had it set too tight and I was huffing and puffing by the time I got to the top of Hwy 9. So I set it a bit loose and it felt great. There's a place that I go over that causes my front end to wobble but the Damper fixed it. Then When I was racing at Buttonwillow, I was getting all kinds of head shake. I tried moving my forks, checked the tires, but nothing. I ended up cranking the sh!t out of the damper and it took most of it away but I still had to let off on the final lap just before the finnish line cause my eyeballs were shaking and a GSXR 750 got passed me right at the line (I didn't know he was there).

My point to all of this is that nobody can tell you where to set your steering damper. You have to experiment with it.
 

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So what do you do...turn it all the way clockwise and than start counting clicks as you back it out? I remember reading something in the manual about not turning one of the dials too far otherwise something gets messed up and it's not covered by the warranty. Should dig out the manual I guess...
 

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Red Rider : So what do you do...turn it all the way clockwise and than start counting clicks as you back it out?  I remember reading something in the manual about not turning one of the dials too far otherwise something gets messed up and it's not covered by the warranty.  Should dig out the manual I guess...
Thats' correct....
They say you should not turn the knob more than 3 turns CCW or the knob may come off - not warranteed.

Shouldn't need to turn it that far as 2 turns CCW (15-16 clicks) is basically off anyway....
 

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I'm still @ completely factory settings. I was so amazed by the difference having a damper produced, that I haven't even played yet.
 

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One to two clicks clockwise from factory setting has been best for me for agressive canyon carving. Haven't done the trackday thing yet, but mine has been unbelievably stable on both smooth and bumpy roads up to about 100 MPH.
 

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After i got my DK forks on, i have since turned the 'base valve' (slow speed) all the way off and i don't have any problems. If it didn't look so darn cool i would probably take it off. My shaking problems went away when i stopped 'hanging on' to the bars during hard acceleration. The forks just make it that much more stable. For those of you who turn the low speed way up, remember that the high speed decreases in those circumstances. I think a headshake is a generally a high speed movement. Can't say enough about the custom forks, the stock bike rides to low in the travel and just can't cope with with bumps without blowing through the entire travel and starting a shake. AB
 

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i have my base valve turned all the way clockwise haven't played with the high speed to much. i do alot of high speed on the highway and alot times on the highway. i never get worn out from turning the bike and i wsh i had more dampening.
 

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any interstate/straight way riding i ride just a couple clicks out from the end ...... when i'm really enjoying the curvys though i set it around the 10 to 11 o'clock postion from hard.
 
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