Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all!

I've just changed the chain and sprockets on my 97 fireblade, and the job went fairly smoothly. It seems that riding though the Swedish winter has had some adverse affects, however.

Unfortunately my right side chain adjuster bolt has seized. The head was already partly rounded off before I put a socket on it, and I managed to round it completely off :crying: I covered the rear brake and drenched the adjuster assembly in spray lube, but the **bleep** just won't budge and i can't get much grip on it now.

I'm having the same problem with the rear brake caliper pad pin plug. The sucker does not want to come off.

I thought about going to the motorcycle junkyard and asking if they could help, but I figured I'd ask here first. Any ideas?


Pictures: Seized bolts - Imgur
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,034 Posts
Hey all!

I've just changed the chain and sprockets on my 97 fireblade, and the job went fairly smoothly. It seems that riding though the Swedish winter has had some adverse affects, however.

Unfortunately my right side chain adjuster bolt has seized. The head was already partly rounded off before I put a socket on it, and I managed to round it completely off :crying: I covered the rear brake and drenched the adjuster assembly in spray lube, but the **bleep** just won't budge and i can't get much grip on it now.

I'm having the same problem with the rear brake caliper pad pin plug. The sucker does not want to come off.

I thought about going to the motorcycle junkyard and asking if they could help, but I figured I'd ask here first. Any ideas?


Pictures: Seized bolts - Imgur
I can't see spray lube helping, you need a penetrating oil like WD40.
And maybe try heating the aluminium around the bolts to break the grip.
 

·
President: Team Full Chat
Joined
·
8,059 Posts
I'm not sure he meant a heat gun, usually a handheld propane torch of some kind? Obviously depending how much heat your gun puts out. Just be a careful if you end up using a torch. It will melt rubber, etc. For the brake pad pin cap, you might have to drill out the center (carefully so as not to drill into the socket portion of the pad pin itself) and use an extractor.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,034 Posts
I'm not sure he meant a heat gun, usually a handheld propane torch of some kind? Obviously depending how much heat your gun puts out. Just be a careful if you end up using a torch. It will melt rubber, etc. For the brake pad pin cap, you might have to drill out the center (carefully so as not to drill into the socket portion of the pad pin itself) and use an extractor.
Heat gun is usually sufficient, that's all I use to remove and install crank bearings in dirt bike engines.
 

·
President: Team Full Chat
Joined
·
8,059 Posts
Heat gun is usually sufficient, that's all I use to remove and install crank bearings in dirt bike engines.
Ahhhh, very well then. Figures, every time I've had something seized up an acetylene torch would never be enough heat. :) Just bad luck I guess. ;)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,034 Posts
Ahhhh, very well then. Figures, every time I've had something seized up an acetylene torch would never be enough heat. :) Just bad luck I guess. ;)

Yeah, I wouldn't recommend pointing an acetylene torch at aluminium :)
The temperature rises too fast with a torch, at 499C it'll look just like it did at room temperature...at 500C it suddenly becomes a shiny puddle :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
752 Posts
Give it a couple of good raps with a hammer that may help break any corrosion. Don't beat it to death though!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,553 Posts
i assume you already rubbed it gently and spoke sweet nothings to it before you tried to get it loose?....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,455 Posts
A) PB Penetrating fluid. Also sometimes called peanut butter. give it at least 15 - 20 minutes to soak. An hour is better.

B) Heat gun, mine adjust al the way up to 800F degrees, that's HOT!

C) put a punch on the bolt head, and give it a wrap with a hammer. That'll help break it loose.

D) Vise grips for the rounded bolt head.

E) Patience.

F) Optional - beer.

Good Luck :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I spent an hour trying to wrestle them loose, to no avail. I don't have an impact screwdriver, so it was an uphill battle. I have admitted defeat and am going to go to motorcycle scrapyard today :*(


But thanks to everyone for your advice!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,034 Posts
I spent an hour trying to wrestle them loose, to no avail. I don't have an impact screwdriver, so it was an uphill battle. I have admitted defeat and am going to go to motorcycle scrapyard today :*(


But thanks to everyone for your advice!


I would think removing them would still be easier, quicker and cheaper than replacing the swingarm and caliper.
Usually the retaining pin under the plug will be fine, so drilling the plug out should be all that's required to fix the caliper.
The chain adjuster you can file two flats on it and try unscrewing it that way, also applying heat. Or weld a bar to the end of the bolt.
Or drill the bolt out completely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Ah yeah, I guess I was unclear about it. I was going to the scrapheap because they probably have more tools to get the bolts loose since they disassemble old bikes all day long. When I moved to Sweden, I had to leave all my tools behind and have only the most basic ones left. My thought was that they would have an extractor for the plug, and whatever tools necessary to break the chain adjuster loose.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top