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Depends where you live Gappo, the book will say every 8000 miles....yes the Honda manual says every 8000, I do mine every 2/2500miles (every 4000kms or so)max because of all the dust in the air here.
 

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I thought it was a competition!
You haven't told us how often you change yours yet :)
:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::plus1::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

Larry you said every 3000kms, in the Honda garage here they said 4000kms or before, because of all the shite in the air here. But from a mechanic based experience (and not a weather one:rolleyes:) Would you say from your own past history of servicing engines that 3000kms is about the optimum time to change???

Answers on a postcard please to Fireblades simpletons corner.Org, the winner gets a squashed banana....as I'v heard they dont travel to well in the post:D
 

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:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::plus1::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

Larry you said every 3000kms, in the Honda garage here they said 4000kms or before, because of all the shite in the air here. But from a mechanic based experience (and not a weather one:rolleyes:) Would you say from your own past history of servicing engines that 3000kms is about the optimum time to change???

Answers on a postcard please to Fireblades simpletons corner.Org, the winner gets a squashed banana....as I'v heard they dont travel to well in the post:D
For me 3000kms works as the oil is still good when it comes out. I have run the same oil for a bit further years ago and it does start to dirty up pretty rapidly after the 3000km mark. I ran the same oil in my neighbour's car for 10,000kms (only revs to 6000RPM and no clutch or transmission though) and it came out black so that's too long in the car.

There are lots of variables though. A different oil, an already filthy or worn engine, low oil pressure, significant blow-by worn rings, worn valve guides and seals, clutch slippage (I barely use the clutch at all on my bikes), poor shifting, dirty air filters or vacuum leaks, running the engine significantly above or below normal running temperatures, poor jetting or excessive choke use, riding at significantly lower or higher than normal RPM, long rides at steady RPM - it's almost endless.
I would suggest though that most of the things that cause your oil to degrade early are due to running the oil for too long to begin with. Once the oil _begins_ to get dirty then it rapidly goes down hill as it works less and less efficiently. This causes engine wear which opens up clearances allowing more pollutants to get into the oil and hammers the oil harder through the clutch and transmission degrading the oil earlier and causing even more wear. In my opinion it is _much_ more sensible to run cheaper oil and change it sooner than to run an expensive oil for longer that simply keeps all the pollutants in your engine.
When you do an oil change the old oil is impossible to get out of the various voids in the engine like the head, cooler, galleries, pump, filter and such so you can have anything from 5-15% of the old oil still in there. And if you don't change the filter you simply have a larger percentage of the old oil _and_ a less efficient filter as well.
For many people oil changes are a chore, and expensive if they're paying somebody else to do it. First you need to find the time to go and get the oil and a filter, find room to do the job, dispose of the old oil and such. I keep plenty of oil on hand all the time as well as a stack of filters. I can be riding or driving and think "I should do an oil change", get home, take my gear off, pull the sump plug, pull the filter, let it drain for ten minutes while I fill a bottle from the drum and check some basics like coolant, air filter, tyre pressures and plugs, spin on a fresh filter (marked with mileage and date with a white paint marker), reinstall the sump plug, dump the old oil into an old drum for recycling, refill the engine and the job's done and forgotten about. Making the job as easy as possible is the key to ensuring you don't keep putting it off :)
 

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For me 3000kms works as the oil is still good when it comes out. I have run the same oil for a bit further years ago and it does start to dirty up pretty rapidly after the 3000km mark. I ran the same oil in my neighbour's car for 10,000kms (only revs to 6000RPM and no clutch or transmission though) and it came out black so that's too long in the car.

There are lots of variables though. A different oil, an already filthy or worn engine, low oil pressure, significant blow-by worn rings, worn valve guides and seals, clutch slippage (I barely use the clutch at all on my bikes), poor shifting, dirty air filters or vacuum leaks, running the engine significantly above or below normal running temperatures, poor jetting or excessive choke use, riding at significantly lower or higher than normal RPM, long rides at steady RPM - it's almost endless.
I would suggest though that most of the things that cause your oil to degrade early are due to running the oil for too long to begin with. Once the oil _begins_ to get dirty then it rapidly goes down hill as it works less and less efficiently. This causes engine wear which opens up clearances allowing more pollutants to get into the oil and hammers the oil harder through the clutch and transmission degrading the oil earlier and causing even more wear. In my opinion it is _much_ more sensible to run cheaper oil and change it sooner than to run an expensive oil for longer that simply keeps all the pollutants in your engine.
When you do an oil change the old oil is impossible to get out of the various voids in the engine like the head, cooler, galleries, pump, filter and such so you can have anything from 5-15% of the old oil still in there. And if you don't change the filter you simply have a larger percentage of the old oil _and_ a less efficient filter as well.
For many people oil changes are a chore, and expensive if they're paying somebody else to do it. First you need to find the time to go and get the oil and a filter, find room to do the job, dispose of the old oil and such. I keep plenty of oil on hand all the time as well as a stack of filters. I can be riding or driving and think "I should do an oil change", get home, take my gear off, pull the sump plug, pull the filter, let it drain for ten minutes while I fill a bottle from the drum and check some basics like coolant, air filter, tyre pressures and plugs, spin on a fresh filter (marked with mileage and date with a white paint marker), reinstall the sump plug, dump the old oil into an old drum for recycling, refill the engine and the job's done and forgotten about. Making the job as easy as possible is the key to ensuring you don't keep putting it off :)
Makes sense to me, probably many would disagree, but from my old mans teachings and what you have said, it works:thumb:
 

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8 k for me?

used 8000 miles interval on my last bike (VFR) no problem with Mob1
on my RR8 plan to do one at first 4000 mile, then 8000 & then at 8k intervals.

Not sure how dust in the air would affect the oil quality. life unless you don't run an air filter:eek:

I would've thought the biggest culprits are: city riding (start/ stop), cold/ hot cycles, short journeys (when the engine doesn't fully warm up), hot temperatures & track riding + ???
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I thought it was a competition!
You haven't told us how often you change yours yet :)
Well it can also be taken as a competition, if ya like, racer.

Squashed bananna on the way to you racer, compliments of jazzy.

I do mine anytime i get new tyres, which is about every 2,500-3,000 mls.
 

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used 8000 miles interval on my last bike (VFR) no problem with Mob1
on my RR8 plan to do one at first 4000 mile, then 8000 & then at 8k intervals.

Not sure how dust in the air would affect the oil quality. life unless you don't run an air filter:eek:

I would've thought the biggest culprits are: city riding (start/ stop), cold/ hot cycles, short journeys (when the engine doesn't fully warm up), hot temperatures & track riding + ???
I live in Lanzarote, there is dust in the air which is like micro particles, if you saw the colour of the oil and the crap thats in it then you'd understand.
Same for any vehicle of any type here, ask ANY mechanic here and you'll get the same answer...its in the proof when you drop the oil
 

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Re: 8 k for me?

used 8000 miles interval on my last bike (VFR) no problem with Mob1
on my RR8 plan to do one at first 4000 mile, then 8000 & then at 8k intervals.
I was thinking about leaving my VFR for 8000 miles, but as Bladeracer says an oil/filter change really doesn't take that long or cost that much, so I'll probably do 4k miles on that as well, at least to start off with.

As for the RR8's, I thought they burned so much oil that it never needs changing, just re-filling after each ride!! :poke: :rotfl:
 

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Destructo
I only stuck to the 8 k interval because I was using Mob1 full syn. I would have halve that for semi or Dino

Jazzy

I've only been to Lanz on hols, found the air very clean (compared to UK anyway). But I didn't experience the famous (scirocco?)easterly wind coming from the sahara carrying sh-t load of sand.
Have you ever wondered why the dust would affect he life of the oil:confused:

Planning a trip to Porte Del Carmen in the winter. Do you know of any good places for hiring a trail bike?


Competition

I guess I must come last:O I am not proud
 
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