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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know if it is okay to ride on a chain that has a few "tight" links in it? I have a EKG 530 chain with about 5K miles on it and it has a small section where about 5 links are tighter than all the others.

I tried to tighten the chain a little because it was getting loose but i found a single spot in the chain where the slack goes from about 2 inches to 0 inches. Kind of like it stretched all around but on a few links. It is only noticeable when the chain hits the rear sprocket. And the slack is totally removed when the links hit the teeth. Is this normal chain wear and it will even out? Or is this something different? I also checked for broken O-Rings and each link visually looks to be in good shape.

Thanks :)
 

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All chains wear differently throughout their length. That's why you have to set the chain slack to the tightest point in the chain and with the countershaft, swingarm pivot and rear axle all lined up.
I would think any slack is going to be very hard to see when the sprocket teeth are holding each link pin in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
BR-

Do you think its okay to adjust the chain length to the tightest spot and still ride? When I'm moving it would go from sagging to correct measurement to sagging; whenever the links would hit the sprocket. Do you think there is potential to have it come off when it gets stressed from the movement? I don't want to fork over the $$$ to change it if the chain is just in a stretch stage. There is still plent of room to come back on the swing arm based on the adjustement marks. (and the gearing set up is all stock)
 

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Does anyone know if it is okay to ride on a chain that has a few "tight" links in it? ...
Tight or stuck links are usually beyond repair, and i am sorry to tell you your chain and sprockets are needing a replacement.

I would not ride a bike with such poor links, but it's up to you to take the risks, but as needless to say i would not recommend it.

-J-
 

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I would try it and see how you go.
For the road I wouldn't be too concerned.
As long as it's not causing any problems it should be fine.
 

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I don't think he's saying any links are stuck, just that the chain is stretched more in some places than others which is normal.
 

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I had this problem on my GF's 750. I found she misadjusted the wheel. Seems she didn't measure the correct lenght when she adjusted the rear wheel, seems one side was adjust incorrectly causing the rear wheel to be slightly crooked. This caused tight spots. I adjusted the wheel correctly, really scrubbed the chain spotless and lubed it correctly, this helped and I adjusted the slack for the tightest spot on the chain. She can drive her bike, doesn't seem to be binding and not to loose, I plan on getting her a 520 kit but it runs for now.
 

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How can there be a 'tightest spot' on the chain? When you're measuring the slack, you should have it ALL pulled down. You're not measuring it with the bike in gear right? There shouldn't be any difference unless some of the links are worn and won't flex easily.

I vote for an excessively worn or damaged chain. Replacing it is a lot cheaper than seeing how it goes and sending it through the tranny when it breaks or worse.

C
 

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There is always a tightest part of the chain. It's probably impossible to have every pin wear exactly the same amount.
You adjust your chain slack at the tightest part of the chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here is the Verdict. I went out and realigned the rear tire using the Sting method. Its was already straight so nothing new there. But when i was spinning the rear while the bike was on the stand I noticed something big. One link is about 2mm longer than all the others. It does not appear damaged. The O-rings are on it, it's in good condition, spins back and forth no isses there either. But when the chain meets the teeth on the sprocket, I can visually see the teeth not aligning correctly. It acutally has to slid into place. Its a very very small gap but just enough to not let the links land in the valley between the teeth correctly. So I will just throw a new chain and sprockets on the bike when I have time :(

For reference the crap chain I used was a EK Red Colored premium Quadra-X Ring Chain. I'm going to use a DID next time. Only getting 5K out of a new chain and new honda OEM sprockets is a waste.

Thanks for all your help :)
 

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If it's only one link you could press it out and rivet in a new one. For a couple of bucks it might be all good for another few thousand miles.
 

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For what it's worth (which ain't much), I think he's doing it right. I wouldn't want more than one master link on my chain. And I wouldn't want to pay someone to extend the life of my, already bad, chain. Labor is not cheap here in the States.
 

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First up, if you don't trust more than one riveted link why would you trust one in the first place?
Second, why would you pay somebody to replace a link - especially since you race don't you?
I agree he's better off with new chain and sprockets - it's always a good move. Some people hate spending money though :)
 

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I wasn't talking about myself. Not everyone has all the tools needed to do everything on a bike.
But I would never use more than one Master on a chain. I'm simply not that cheap. Even if money were a huge issue, I would not put a new link on an old chain. I want all the links to be as consistant as possible to save the sprockets. And especially if it were for racing! If anything about the chain was not up to par, the chain would be thrown out!
One more thing. Chains do not have tight spots as refered to adjustment. It is the sprockets that are not perfict. So you rotate the assembly to find the longest part of said assembly, and adjust from there.
 

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It is chain stretch that causes the variation, not the sprockets.
It's been well know for decades in industries that use chain drive for all sorts of things.
With over 100 rollers you can't possibly get them to all wear at exactly the same rate.
Stretch is not techincally correct of course as nothing is actually stretched. The "stretch" is merely the accumulation of wear on each roller.
 

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It is chain stretch that causes the variation, not the sprockets.
It's been well know for decades in industries that use chain drive for all sorts of things.
With over 100 rollers you can't possibly get them to all wear at exactly the same rate.
Stretch is not techincally correct of course as nothing is actually stretched. The "stretch" is merely the accumulation of wear on each roller.
And the chain is the same length as the chain. That is a constant. And is the reason that even when adjusting a brand new chain, you rotate the assembly to the tightest possision. The sprockets vary.
And a little explination since we've beaten this one into the ground and won't be coming back.
It is usually the rear sprocket and cush drive assembly that is not perfict.
 

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To be honest I can relate to both nedro and bladeracer.

I've had stretched chains or chains with stiff links, and sprockets that are not 100% OK - like the current front sprocket on my 954, bought cheap off eBay - it cost me a perfectly good DID chain before I figured out the sprocket was to blame (I replaced the chain thinking it was stuffed only to discover the new chain exhibited the same uneven tension which I eventually traced to the front sprocket !!).

Nothing beats quality...buy the best you can afford and look after it well.

Cheers, Spanky.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Do you think the new Honda sprockets I bought were defective and caused the single link to stretch? Or do you think the new chain was just defective? I inspected the sprockets and they also look to be great. I'm under the suspicion that the chain was defective and one link was a sizing abnormality. It only took 5k miles to stretch the rollers in the chain to make the issue apparent.

thanks again :)

just my thoughts on the matter.
 
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