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Discussion Starter #1
I just ordered replacement chit for my car. I went with Soundstream through a hookup I have, anyone know anything about their quality? Below are the components I ordered:

> Amp: Soundstream TR800/5
> Sub: Soundstream EG-10X
> Front Components : EGC 6
> Rear Speakers : EGS 6.5

Don't know where I'm going for installation but the guy I talked to was trying to talk me into a custom fiberglass box for $600, I was like :rotfl:
 

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Paging Billace...


Once upon a time it was great stuff. Lately I haven't been following Car audio but I think Bill said they've gone downhill.

Dude, PM me about your new cage, my GF wants to buy a little fuel efficient cage very soon, and I'm trying to talk her out of a Golf.
 

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What's next...ground-effects, neon-lights, and a fart-can?

Last time I did that stuff, JL Audio and Phoenix Gold were the stuff to get. I still have it all, btw... :deal: :lol:
 

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ER said:
What's next...ground-effects, neon-lights, and a fart-can?

Last time I did that stuff, JL Audio and Phoenix Gold were the stuff to get. I still have it all, btw... :deal: :lol:

I'll buy the wing and the fart can.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ER said:
What's next...ground-effects, neon-lights, and a fart-can?
Nope. I'm going to do what I'd do with an inline 4 cylinder bike :D I'm replacing the headers, doing the intake, and putting a quiet cat back exhaust on it soon to get some extra horses and midrange. Car will drive as quiet as it is now, brakes need some work too, maybe new rotors, pads, and S/S lines. The suspension kicks ass stock. No wings, neon, stickers, or any other such nonsense. It's a relatively cheap car, inexpensive cars don't come with premium sound systems fisherman :smilebig:
 

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booth23 said:
Nope. I'm going to do what I'd do with an inline 4 cylinder bike :D I'm replacing the headers, doing the intake, and putting a quiet cat back exhaust on it soon to get some extra horses and midrange. Car will drive as quiet as it is now, brakes need some work too, maybe new rotors, pads, and S/S lines. The suspension kicks ass stock. No wings, neon, stickers, or any other such nonsense. It's a relatively cheap car, inexpensive cars don't come with premium sound systems fisherman :smilebig:
:lol: Something tells me you'd buy a washer from Sears and upgrade the water-lines, redo the motor for the drum, and add a bling-bling door.

Loud systems are still prevailent around here - especially in the fart-can crowd. In my(our) day, it was Mustangs/Camaros with Flowmaster mufflers and 15" subs in the hatch. I guess only the model of the car has changed. :D My ears permanently ring 24/7 from listening to NWA and Public Enemy at ridiculous DB levels. :crap:

I'm surprised your car doesn't sound good enough to you. Most of today's cars have decent systems now. My '99 Accord sounds pretty good.
 

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Soundstream was great stuff up to around 97 when the owner passed on. His wife Donna took over, They had the highest defective rate I've ever seen in the industry going off shore when that wasn't a good thing. Their loan was called and they filed for bankruptcy. They are currently owned by Power Acoustic, which isn't the best stuff out there. At this point though, almost all car amp are made in 3 factories in Asia. It doesn't make sense to buy a brand like Rockford Fosgate when the build quality is no better than the other brands. There is a premium charged to cover their huge marketing budgets that created the brand recognition in the first place.

I've been recommending MTX lately for an inexpensive amplifier. Mitek, the parent company, didn't reach their sales projections and due to some loophole in their contract, the factory in China is permitted to sell the product themselves. That should cut a few lines of distribution and make the product easy to find on the net cheap.

In the end, it used to be $1 = 1 Watt. Now, they can build 1 Watt for around $.80 When you buy that amp that says 760 watts on the heatsink for $169, you can be sure that it won't do better than around 200 watts. There is no magic to building an amp, just BS marketing driven meaningless specs. Unless of course you are:

- Only listening to a 1,000 Hz test tone.
- You only listen for 1 second at a time.
- You don't listen at all, instead you have a shunt resistor connected to the amp to see the pretty lights it has and keep the impedance @ 4 ohms.
- Your car is always 65 degrees F.
- You have an HP 5000 watt power supply in your car.

What kind of car is it going into?
 

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ER said:
Loud systems are still prevailent around here - especially in the fart-can crowd. In my(our) day, it was Mustangs/Camaros with Flowmaster mufflers and 15" subs in the hatch.
Do you still have a mullet?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ER said:
:lol: Something tells me you'd buy a washer from Sears and upgrade the water-lines, redo the motor for the drum, and add a bling-bling door.

Loud systems are still prevailent around here - especially in the fart-can crowd. In my(our) day, it was Mustangs/Camaros with Flowmaster mufflers and 15" subs in the hatch. I guess only the model of the car has changed. :D My ears permanently ring 24/7 from listening to NWA and Public Enemy at ridiculous DB levels. :crap:

I'm surprised your car doesn't sound good enough to you. Most of today's cars have decent systems now. My '99 Accord sounds pretty good.
No I wouldn't upgrade a washer, come on :rolleyes:
It will be possible to be loud in the car but not out of it with the windows rolled up. 1 10" woofer back there is just for some decent bass, I'm not trying to be part of the gold tooth pete crowd :D
The sound system in that car is shite. The last car I had (Type S RSX) had a good enough system in it from the factory but it wasn't loud enough. Of the Japanese cars I've ridden in, the Nissans seem to have the best systems (referring to Maximas) I've heard from the factory. Honda puts decent stuff in the Accord for the most part. I got this car for so little, and the payments on it are the same I paid when I made 35k less 3 1/2 years ago, so I'd like to spend some $ on the stereo, power, and brakes. It's a damn fun car, handles like a car that costs twice as much. Should be very similar handling to the new minicoopers, reminds me of a 600.
 

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ND4SPD said:
Do you still have a mullet?
:rotfl: :rotfl:
Way to funny. Boy am I glad those fashion days in the past. Every now and then I see some dude still sporting one of those cuts. I cannot help but laugh. Immediately I think of that country singer who sings that song “ache breake heart”. Or that movie "Joe Dirt". :D
 

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luvtolean said:
Paging Billace...


Once upon a time it was great stuff. Lately I haven't been following Car audio but I think Bill said they've gone downhill.

Yup. I was into car audio back in the early 90's, when I had a CRX. Soundstream was what you wanted for amps and subs. I haven't kept up with it recently, but I have heard that Soundstream isn't as hot as they used to be.
 

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RMS power is what matters. I would go with 12's or even 10's due to the slower response of anything else. Power is power for subs basically. Doesn't need to be all that clean. Anything with a s/n ratio over about 85 is fine. Your reproducing tones in the 500hz or less range (unless your asking the subs for fill). Quality subs with large mags are still important with venter poles to bleed off heat and to control cone/pole/vc excursion. Rubber surround is nice and durable in a car audio app but I still prefer foam. Me personal fav's are still JL's. Under rated power handling for not too huge dollars. Amp wise, ahhhhhh,,,,, not real sure now. Been out a while. PPI was the craze a few years back. MTX is nice. My personal amps of choice were Orion. Ran an HCCA for the longest time. Solid power (could double as a generator). They were 1/4ohm stable (HCCA only) and were very versatile.

Up front, quality is key.... Amps should be real high s/n ratio. Speakers should be clear. Seperates. MB's, BA's are about the std (or were). Can run them 180* out of phase for more fill. Like mentioned above, it's still about the dollar per watt rating for good stuff.

My .01.... :idunno:
 

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BigDawg said:
Me personal fav's are still JL's. Under rated power handling for not too huge dollars. Amp wise, ahhhhhh,,,,, not real sure now. Been out a while. PPI was the craze a few years back. MTX is nice. My personal amps of choice were Orion...
I'm hearing a lot of the same names I heard when I was into this stuff 15 years ago. Not to jack your thread Booth but I have a set of JL 10s, a PPI 75x2, Phoenix Gold 75x4 (I think), JBL crossover...tryin' to give this stuff away for chump-change. It's 12 years old though. I wonder if it would still sell? :idunno:
 

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Don't mean to jack the thread:

BillAce - Do you know of any way to upgrade the Ford Mach460 speakers w/o pulling the factory amps?? Will any aftermarket sound OK??
 

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sasakzootoo said:
Don't mean to jack the thread:

BillAce - Do you know of any way to upgrade the Ford Mach460 speakers w/o pulling the factory amps?? Will any aftermarket sound OK??
The Mach 460 system will work fine with 4 ohm speakers. The issue is sizes. The door is a 5x7 woofer and there is a seperate tweeter on the side mirror plate. A 6.5" component system could be mounted there, the tweeter would be a huge improvement. Someone may even make a 5x7 component set by now, I just rarely use stock locations or oval speakers. The big problem is that it probably will result in less volume. The passive xover with a component system will rob you of some power and in most cases, the factory speakers are chosen for their efficiency or volume, and an aftermarket would be lower in volume before the Mach 460 amplifiers began to clip. I would start with a new tweeter with it's own in line crossover, I would get a silk dome due to the close proximity to your ear and since tweeters are all pretty efficient and operate at such high impedance, you won't suffer and loss in volume or frequency response.
 
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