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Discussion Starter #1
Fresh rebuild about 1k miles on these plugs. The only issue im having is fuel consumption. Last 2 tanks were about 80 miles. I noticed oil at the base of the threads. Is this okay? Last note of is I syncronized the starter velves about 20 miles ago. Only because of a slight hickup in the isle which honestly hasnt gone away even tho the idle is more smooth now. CBR954

The bike rips. Pulls hard. Revs high. No back fires (even tho i dont mind back fires under hard deceleration) EYE LOVE IT. but what are the plugs saying:idunno:
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Heeza Y Zasch
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only 80 miles to a full tank...?! :hmm:

do you have a a 72T rear sprocket or something?

is there a chance your FPR is malfunctioning?

Plugs 1 & 3 look a bit dark from where I'm sitting. Not sure about the oil though.
 

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It looks like you're burning oil on cylinders 1 and 3, could be coming from the rings or from the valves. You mentioned a recent rebuild, did you inspect the valve guides in the head?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Everything internally was cleaned spotless. The ex valves showed some pitting but I chose not to replace them. We did grind the valve seats on all the valves and they all have new guide seals. All new piston rings. I honed each cylinder. My oil level hasn't changed. Is it possible that the raw surfaces allowed oil through during the break in. Im hoping once the valves reseat and the cylinders seat the plugs will look better. The exhaust doesnt look like oil burning. When the bike is cold you can see the rich exhaust but once the wax unit warms up it goes away.

How do I confirm FPR function? All I've done so far is pull the vacuum line off and turned the key on. No fuel drips. Nor any fuel around the FPR while running warm or cold.

Thanks for your time guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Have you compression tested to confirm seal on valves and rings?
I have not tested compression. My testers adapter doesnt reach the threads in the head. Its stupid and frustrating. Im gonna be really bummed if Ive rebuilt this engine and the compression is low after all that work. Do I really have to test the compression :crap::pray::bomb::fear::alcohol::flame:
 

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Alusil needs special equipment to hone it. If you did it ourself with a drill and honing stones that's probably the problems.
 

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Really!?! More info please. Are you gonna tell me super hardened metal needs a finer hone?
It isn't any super hardened metal. Google alusil. And if you are referring to nicasil normal hone won't allso work. It needs a diamond hone. It's too hard for a normal hone. Normal honr will only take material of where the plating is missing. But on 954 the cylinders are alusil which is a whole different case.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It isn't any super hardened metal. Google alusil. And if you are referring to nicasil normal hone won't allso work. It needs a diamond hone. It's too hard for a normal hone. Normal honr will only take material of where the plating is missing. But on 954 the cylinders are alusil which is a whole different case.
Well for the tiny bit if honing I did on each cylinder I'm not going to worry about. I measured and compared all the numbers which were all good. The cylinders were never the issue nor thr rings. I had a plugged fuel injector that leaned out no.2 cylinder and melted a hole through the piston.

The injectors were sent out and serviced. I spoke with them regarding the rich fuel mixture and they indicated an injector may be sticking. Im going to send them back and have them rechecked. The weather sucks here right now anyway. Oil is not an issue :)hand:)

Moving on.... Im trying to figure out what the FPR is doing. I checked the fuel flow and only got about 100cc of fuel per 10 seconds of flow. Thats nearly half of what the manual says for minimum fuel flow rate. This seems opposite of what I was expecting. :idunno: Rich fuel mixture but half the fuel flow:idunno::idunno::idunno: can someone shine some light on this :huh::help:

So with this information the first thing that comes to mind is fuel filter and/or fuel pump. Are there price savvy options for replacing these? Id rather not buy used. Seems redundant to me. If I have to spend OEM dollars I would prefer to go higher performance.
 

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I have had fpr issues before and it caused bad idling. Best way to check is to remove the vacuum line from the regulator and see if fuel is dripping out when running. If it is it could be the cause of your rich plugs

Edit: In my opinion those look fuel fouled, not oil
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have had fpr issues before and it caused bad idling. Best way to check is to remove the vacuum line from the regulator and see if fuel is dripping out when running. If it is it could be the cause of your rich plugs

Edit: In my opinion those look fuel fouled, not oil
:plus1:agreed. Thanks for the input. So far its not leaking althoug im not sure i fired up the bike. I may have only turned the key/pump on.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So far the fpr has not proven to be leaking. I did read a post on a adjustable fpr for $25. It needs a little rigging to fit but its an interesting possibility. I just installed a pc3 and loaded the proper map for the setup ive got. We'll see what happens. Oh and I wiggled the injectors to make sure they seated properly.
 

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So far the fpr has not proven to be leaking. I did read a post on a adjustable fpr for $25. It needs a little rigging to fit but its an interesting possibility. I just installed a pc3 and loaded the proper map for the setup ive got. We'll see what happens. Oh and I wiggled the injectors to make sure they seated properly.
My FPR WAS bad and did NOT leak.

I have seen this with others as well.
Noticed a HUGE difference in performance and idle consistency.
Would be worth another look, especially if you can properly fit that one for $25...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My FPR WAS bad and did NOT leak.

I have seen this with others as well.
Noticed a HUGE difference in performance and idle consistency.
Would be worth another look, especially if you can properly fit that one for $25...
Good to know. I will move forward with replacing the fpr. I will also try the zero map. So far the power commander has lowered the idle a tad and seems more smooth. Also more responsive low end which is hard to imagine :eyebrows:
 
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