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Today while on a ride, I had a little scare with my back tire. I was rolling into a curve and as I setup my line I downshifted to slow and felt like the back tire skipped a little as I entered the curve. I really use my engine for speed control rather than my breaks... so my question to the forum is this... Could this be my suspension or my technique?

I read a post by Sheep indicating a change in the suspesion of his 1000RR. On the front, I've set my preload to 14 rather than the factory 7, the front rebound damping to 1 rather than factory 2, and the compression damping to 1 rather than factory 2. This hardens the front end. I'm going to shift my rear preload to 8, rebound damping to 1.5, and compression damping to 6.

The suspension game seems like a science I just don't understand. After reading a bit it seems that aggressive riding favors a more stiff setup but if I had a little wheel slide/shimmy/something was it already too hard? eesh...

any tips?
 

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If you downshift going into a curve in such a way that the rear end chirps, the problem has nothing to do with suspension.

Suggestions: Practice (in a straight line, on a lonely road !) downshifting smoothly, raising the rpms to match the engine speed to the road speed in the lower gear.

Also, try to get all of your set-up done ( braking, downshifting, shifting weight, thinking about other stuff) before you turn in.
 

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CBRVFR said:
If you downshift going into a curve in such a way that the rear end chirps, the problem has nothing to do with suspension.

Suggestions: Practice (in a straight line, on a lonely road !) downshifting smoothly, raising the rpms to match the engine speed to the road speed in the lower gear.

Also, try to get all of your set-up done ( braking, downshifting, shifting weight, thinking about other stuff) before you turn in.
What dave said...

What you are feeling is excessive engine braking locking the rear end. If you get back on the throttle and match RPMs as suggested you will prevent that from happening.
 

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Sounds like a little chatter to me. Get your down shifting/braking done before you enter the corner. Also listen to everyone else on blipping the throttle.
 

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The bike has two big rotors out front for a reason. Using your engine to brake is putting unnecessary extra wear on it.
 

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Hey Lay3r3,

I wouldn't panic too much, my rear tyre gets a bit excited on entering a corner if I'm on the brakes and drop it down a cog too - even though I blip the throttle to match the engine revs to ground speed, sometimes if its a sudden down-change the back end of my 929 can get a bit loose :crap: and weave around momentarily.

...but I know it's my fault and nothing to do with suspension set-up - I just take a deep breath and make sure I do it smoother at the next corner.

Cheers, Spanky.
 

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ok same type of question only a little different. what if the rear end sways from downshifiting at high speeds sort of like a flowing motion back and forth? technique or suspension or just the power of downshifting from hish speed?
 

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Hi xxshawnxx,

that's the sort of thing I'm talking about - I've never heard my rear tyre chirrup, more felt it weave/sway about a bit straight after I let the clutch out when dropping it down a gear on the way into a corner...

It's just one of those things - if you're cranked over pushing the bike into a corner on the brakes, and drop down a gear (and make the revs jump up high enough), from time to time the rear tyre will struggle to retain it's hold on the road and start to slide around a little - not to be encouraged, but not a massive problem either...

This is what they developed slipper clutches for, they deal with this problem by limiting the initial bite (or back torque) of engine braking...just a shame the 929 didn't come with one :crap: .

Cheers, Spanky.
 

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spanky so you are saying that the swaying can be elimnated by the slipper clutch? how much would a slipper cost?

ive never experienced actual tire chirrping just a lot of swaying
 

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xxshawnxx said:
spanky so you are saying that the swaying can be elimnated by the slipper clutch? how much would a slipper cost?
Hi xxshawnxx,

I reckon the slipper would certainly help, but if you tried hard enough I think you'd probably still have problems...I don't know what a slipper clutch is worth, or even if there is a unit available for a 929 (there probably is somewhere) but I'm sure it'd be expensive :crying: Better to work on the down-shifting technique and avoid the problem from the get-go.

What is the situation you're in when you experience the swaying ? - is it similar to what I described or does it happen at a different time - like when you're upright (and braking ?) before leaning into a corner ?

I guess, if you haven't done it already, you might want to check your suspension sag front and back to make sure the bike is set-up and balanced for you - if you've got too much weight on the front (and therefore not enough on the rear) because of excessive sag up front then the back-end will be pretty light under braking and likely to misbehave when provoked (like when you dump it down a gear leaned over entering a corner :crap: )...I know this is my problem because my financial controller (read : Wife) wont give me the money for a fork spring upgrade !

Cheers Spanky.
 

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Spanky said:
Hi xxshawnxx,

I What is the situation you're in when you experience the swaying ? - is it similar to what I described or does it happen at a different time - like when you're upright (and braking ?) before leaning into a corner ?

I guess, if you haven't done it already, you might want to check your suspension sag front and back to make sure the bike is set-up and balanced for you - if you've got too much weight on the front (and therefore not enough on the rear) because of excessive sag up front then the back-end will be pretty light under braking and likely to misbehave when provoked (like when you dump it down a gear leaned over entering a corner :crap: )...I know this is my problem because my financial controller (read : Wife) wont give me the money for a fork spring upgrade !

Cheers Spanky.
+1.....too soft front tends to cause the back end to wallow side to side under heavy braking.
 

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It's you. I use to do that because I wasn't blipp'n or rev'n it high enough. Too slow of rebound on the shock will effect the rear under hard braking...but being smooth will solve 90% of most problems.

Something to think about is using the front brakes...If you never brake hard you're not really getting all the heat in the front tire you can. I see this on twins where people 'engine brake'. they bitch about the front sliding/pushing. When they start braking correctly they get more heat in the front, therefore more grip...sliding/pushing stops.
 

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02FBlade said:
It's you. I use to do that because I wasn't blipp'n or rev'n it high enough. Too slow of rebound on the shock will effect the rear under hard braking...but being smooth will solve 90% of most problems.

Something to think about is using the front brakes...If you never brake hard you're not really getting all the heat in the front tire you can. I see this on twins where people 'engine brake'. they bitch about the front sliding/pushing. When they start braking correctly they get more heat in the front, therefore more grip...sliding/pushing stops.
Good comments! Engine braking is for cruisers.
 

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Hmmmm...hadn't spent too long thinkin' about rebound damping as a fix (or at least part of a fix), maybe I'll have a play with that next time I'm out - like I said earlier, when I get the weave on I usually just blame myself and try to smooth things out at the next corner...assuming I make this one of course !
 

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Hmmmmmm. Just to throw a spanner in the works, some of the very fastest road riders I know will tell you that if you are doing heavy braking or violent engine braking by down shifting when road riding, then you're either going too fast for the conditions or you just haven't planned ahead very well. Watch an expert rider and you'll hardly ever see their brake lights flicker, nor the back end kick out when down shifting. Not - "felt like the back tire skipped a little as I entered the curve", do your speed correction on the straight bits.

Approaching a corner, correct gear, roll off to reduce speed, enter the turn and pick up the throttle again. Nice and smooth. no brakes needed at all. Unless you're racing on the road. :nono:
 

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racers get that back end wiggling all the time. depends on the person, some of them its just part of their style. But listen to Proto as far as speed and braking on the streets.

Erion has a slipper clutch for the 929, its $9xx.
 

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Slippers are awesome! Especially t13 at Barber!

To clarify on the rebound...Again most of the rear hop is the rider and rev matching/timing of the downshifts. The effect of slow rebound is due to the rear raising off the ground during hard braking....if the rebound is too slow the rear can't drop down fast enough (to stay on the pavement) and can cause some hoping. It's really only going to happen on the track during extreme braking.
 
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