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Hi Guys,

I'm in the market for one and have spotted this on eBay - Power Commander 3r Fireblade 929 rry rr1 | eBay.

Is it worth a punt? Anyone got any ideas what might be wrong with it?

Cheers

Alex

Maybe.
If you're lucky, it's just a bad wire, otherwise it could be faulty inside - PC's do fail.
Send Dynojet an email and ask if they inspect and repair and what they charge.
 

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The ad says sold, are you giving it a try?
 

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No- don't get it.
A skilled sparky should be able to have a go at it? :huh:

That's a red flag right there.
These things either work properly or they don't. There's no fixing them. That unit is so old, and I bet it's been beating around the rearsection of that 929 for years.

I say this because I have a 3r for my RC51. It came with a deal of other parts I bought when I rebuilt it 3 years ago. I've had the back plate off, and as I recall, it's just printed circuit board and diodes.
The PCIIIr also doesn't have a dust seal around the serial connector. Mine was pretty dusty inside. It works just fine, I've tried several different maps on it now.
DynoJet's support is limited because these units have been out of production for so long. But you can still download the available maps from their site, but it's quite tricky to learn how to install them successfully.

I'd say keep looking for a used one, but one that's known to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I got it in the end for under £20 so it'll either be a complete waste or turn out to be useful. I've had a brief look and the wires all seem to be in tact so next plan was to take the back off and check the circuit board for broken components or something that needs re-soldering.

Basically the guy said it was working fine on his blade then one night it felt as if one cylinder wasn't firing - he swapped for a USB version as managed to grab a bargain.

I'll see how I get on but keep an eye out for a working USB one in the meantime.

Any tips on where to start??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok - update on this, I took the back cover off the unit last night to see if I could check the state of the PCB but was quite surprised at what I found inside.

There seems to be this spongey mould silicone stuff in there, I assume this seals the PCB in and protects it - or is it just so it's tamper proof?

Really not sure where to go from here - do I cut the stuff out to get to the PCB or just admit that this is toast! Ideally I want to know if there is a way I can test each wire to see there is one broken.

Any tips or ideas appreciated.

Cheers



 

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Hmmmm, mine definately didn't look like that. I'll take another look inside and post a pic.

Have you tried it yet? I'd hook it up and see what happens.
Any idea what map is on it? (sorry if you already stated that and I missed it)
You can use any Serial to USB cable, but I'm sure you'll need to upload the software for the cable. I used one from Radio Shack ($10) and it came with a CD to upload the needed software.
Let us know if you run into any other problems with mounting and getting the computer to recognize the PCIII. Good luck
 

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Ok - update on this, I took the back cover off the unit last night to see if I could check the state of the PCB but was quite surprised at what I found inside.

There seems to be this spongey mould silicone stuff in there, I assume this seals the PCB in and protects it - or is it just so it's tamper proof?

Really not sure where to go from here - do I cut the stuff out to get to the PCB or just admit that this is toast! Ideally I want to know if there is a way I can test each wire to see there is one broken.

Any tips or ideas appreciated.

Cheers


Probe each wire where it goes into the resin, check for continuity at the other end.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hmmmm, mine definately didn't look like that. I'll take another look inside and post a pic.

Have you tried it yet? I'd hook it up and see what happens.
Any idea what map is on it? (sorry if you already stated that and I missed it)
You can use any Serial to USB cable, but I'm sure you'll need to upload the software for the cable. I used one from Radio Shack ($10) and it came with a CD to upload the needed software.
Let us know if you run into any other problems with mounting and getting the computer to recognize the PCIII. Good luck
Hmm bizarre - do you have the serial model too? Yes if you could take a look inside yours and post a pic that would be great - thanks.

I haven't tried it yet but good point I ought to give it a go first - who knows it might actually work fine! It's got a micron slip-on map loaded at the moment. Problem is I have a Pipe Werx exhaust and there is no specific map for it so any ideas on what map to try?

Also what is involved in fitting it as i've never fitted one before - I understand they bolt into harnesses underneath the tank? If you could link me to a guide that would be awesome - I assume it's a tank off jobby?

Cheers
 

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Have you tried searching Youtube for a video on mounting your PC?
Your 929 may be close enough to my RC51 as far as wiring harness goes, so here's a link that may help you.

RC51.org PCIIIr additional installation hints

You don't have to worry at all about hooking up the red connector that plugs into the pulse generator connector. That's for mapping each cylinder a little differently when you're at the Dyno. Not even sure if it's included for the I4's. I leave mine unplugged.

Just take care to make sure wires don't get pinched when lifting and lowering your tank.
 

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Have you tried searching Youtube for a video on mounting your PC?
Your 929 may be close enough to my RC51 as far as wiring harness goes, so here's a link that may help you.

RC51.org PCIIIr additional installation hints

You don't have to worry at all about hooking up the red connector that plugs into the pulse generator connector. That's for mapping each cylinder a little differently when you're at the Dyno. Not even sure if it's included for the I4's. I leave mine unplugged.

Just take care to make sure wires don't get pinched when lifting and lowering your tank.

Actually, that's for ignition mapping ;-)
 

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I have a PCIIIr with the back removed, it looks the same. No way you are going to dig that out and fix the board. It is poured in in liquid form and the dries like rubber. It is tamper, moisture, and shock resistant. Try hooking it up. The red wire is for ignition, not tuning each cylinder. DO NOT forget to hook up the ground. Sometimes people forget this and think the PowerCommander is bad.
 
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