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Discussion Starter #1
Im doing my first valve clearance check.
Either im doing this wrong or most of my valves are tight.

Is it common to have low clearances?
Example. Intake specified is 0.16 mm +/- .03, and i can only smoothly fit a .10 mm in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
also, im tossing the pair valve assembly contraption, just blocking it off. Need i simply disconnect the connector (orange/green)?
 

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Im doing my first valve clearance check.
Either im doing this wrong or most of my valves are tight.

Is it common to have low clearances?
Example. Intake specified is 0.16 mm +/- .03, and i can only smoothly fit a .10 mm in there.
Cam-over-bucket clearances tend to tighten up so yes, it's more usual for them to be tight than loose. That's why it's important to check them.
I guess it's possible you're doing something wrong but I can't guess what it might be.
Are sure you don't have two feeler strips stuck together?
I _always_ check feelers with a mic.
Are you following the manual?
 

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also, im tossing the pair valve assembly contraption, just blocking it off. Need i simply disconnect the connector (orange/green)?
I'm not sure what you're asking.
If you're removing the PAIR solenoid then yes, you would have to disconnect it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The manual is right next to me, ive tried two diff sets of gauges too...

only 4 are within spec??
 

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Discussion Starter #7
turns out i have one valve thats a tad tight.

intake on cyl 3 is .10 mm, is this single valve worth doing a valve adjustment?
 

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turns out i have one valve thats a tad tight.

intake on cyl 3 is .10 mm, is this single valve worth doing a valve adjustment?
Well, there is less work involved in removing the head later on to replace just one burnt valve than if all sixteen were burnt so I guess you could leave it ;-)

Personally, I'd do it while you're in there now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I know it isnt a necessity to drop the engine, but it is possible to pull the cams and get the timing right later without fully being able to see the right side of the engine where the marks are?
 

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I know it isnt a necessity to drop the engine, but it is possible to pull the cams and get the timing right later without fully being able to see the right side of the engine where the marks are?
Yep.
Honda special tool - a MIRROR :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
alright, alright, what about the cam sprockets? The manual says i do if im replacing them, but i dont intend to, so no?
 

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alright, alright, what about the cam sprockets? The manual says i do if im replacing them, but i dont intend to, so no?
Do you mean, do you need to remove the sprockets from the cams?
You shouldn't have to.
 

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perfect, guess ill be doing an adjustment then. What are your opinions on CCTs oem vs manual?
I don't trust ratchets and springs so I make my own manual ones.
 

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how can you tell when its properly tensioned? By sound?
I get asked that a lot.
I don't really know.
I guess I've seen inside enough engines to be able to see and feel when the tension is correct :)
 

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I had a theory once that it should be possible to come up with a torque figure for the correct chain tension but I don't adjust them often enough that I remember to take a torque measurement :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
sorry for the confusion, i simply was not correct the first time around. I re-did it and found only 1 out of spec.
 
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