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I'm sure a bunch of you already have seen/used them, but I was just told about Timeserts, a thread repair kit. They fix my biggest gripe with Heli-coils, the first thread, as they counterbore the top and put a flange on the top of the insert.

Here's a vid showing how they're installed, neat product!

http://www.timesert.com/video/StandardRepair.wmv
 

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Timeserts are good. What's even better are the aerospace type timeserts we used to repair aircraft engine parts. They are a two piece insert that still requires the counterbore. The top part of the insert gets taped ( lightly hammered ) down into the counterbore and locks itself into the aluminum or magnesium auto/bike/aero part. The only special tool required is the counterbore cutter. Also they come in blind bottom so if it is a crankcase your working on, no oil or water will get past the insert. We used a special glue when installing them so they were oil and water tight.
 

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Thought i'd update the thread.. i found an insert ( not helicoil type ) that comes with loctite already on the outer threads. It is a 1-piece insert. First you drill the damaged threads/hole to the recomended size, then tap the hole with the appropriate thread tap. Last, install the insert with a screwdriver - done deal. I had to order one to repair my frames' gas tank mount thread. Cost = $12 for 5 inserts through www.mcmastercarr.com

They carry all the common metric sizes. They make them in black oxide steel or stainless steel.

mcmastercarr is also good for locating pins, bolts, nuts, washers, taps, drills, dies, loctite, etc,etc.
 

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I was reading about all the ford 4.6 and 5.4 engines from 96 up through 2002 blowing spark plugs out and striping threads. Helicoils were only performing a temp fix and the timeserts were holding true.
 

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Good job keeping this updated guys. This is good info for us wrench monkeys who like to booger holes. ;)
 

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I'm sure a bunch of you already have seen/used them, but I was just told about Timeserts, a thread repair kit. They fix my biggest gripe with Heli-coils, the first thread, as they counterbore the top and put a flange on the top of the insert.

Here's a vid showing how they're installed, neat product!

http://www.timesert.com/video/StandardRepair.wmv
That is freakin awesome. I was getting a major headache messing around the the heli-coil. The coil would just keep snapping before all the threads made their way into the hole no matter how slow or lubricated they were. This product looks like it eliminates that issue. What holds the timesert in the hole out of curiousity?
 

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Good job keeping this updated guys. This is good info for us wrench monkeys who like to buy Italian bikes. Part of the reason they're so expensive is the patented oval holes.. ;)

Fixed that for ya.. :smilebig:
 

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Deja Vu?http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-cbr-600/46488-rebuild-2.html?highlight=keysert#post484505

And as for Helicoils...you got to be doing something wrong if they break putting them in. I've installed somewhere around 500 or so over the years and never broke one. Threaded inserts should be a last result if a Helicoil pulls out. Why drill out so much material from the get go...you mess that up, your pretty much done. With the normal progression (Helicoil, thinwall insert, thick wall insert) you get 4 chances to screw it up before scrapping the part :)
 

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We used "keenserts" also in aviation overhaul/repair. I can't say how well they hold up over time as i don't recall seeing any used parts come in with keenserts that were damaged or pulling out. I liked to install them, easier than Timeserts to install, but as far as i know you can only use them in magnesium or aluminum parts. For steel parts i still think the best thread repair is a stainless steel Helicoil. Helicoils ARE fussy if you don't use a sharp tap ( dull taps are a helicoil nightmare ). Also when using any of these thread repairs usually a special thread tap is required, it will be called an "STI" tap. STI taps won't work for chasing out existing threads of common sizes... they are only good for making threads for inserts/helicoils.

Timeserts probably are the best but you have to have enough room around the diameter of the hole being repaired ( i would say minimum 1/8 inch ) so if you are repairing an 8mm threaded hole... you need to be able to fit at least a 12mm diameter area, more would be better. If you don't have room for that much diameter use what i am using. It's just a plain 1 piece insert that comes with a loctite type adhesive applied to it already. Or use a helicoil, but helicoils aren't my first option if the threads need to be oil or coolant tight.

Keep in mind these different type of thread repairs require special tools.
edit: EZ-LOK inserts don't require special tools, just the correct size cutting tap. I wanted to add a picture so you all could see them, but i can't figure out how to add a photo here.

About links for the mcmastercarr website.. can't do because it's a java program or something simlar.

EZ-LOK website is: EZ-LOK
 

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i recently bought a cadillac, that has a blown headgasket, didnt do my research before i bought it, figured it would be easy fix. Looks like timeserts are the way to go for the northstar headgasket, headbolt problem also.

Im going to be repairing this car in the next few weeks so i'll let you guys know how they hold up
 

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Deja Vu?http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-cbr-600/46488-rebuild-2.html?highlight=keysert#post484505

And as for Helicoils...you got to be doing something wrong if they break putting them in. I've installed somewhere around 500 or so over the years and never broke one. Threaded inserts should be a last result if a Helicoil pulls out. Why drill out so much material from the get go...you mess that up, your pretty much done. With the normal progression (Helicoil, thinwall insert, thick wall insert) you get 4 chances to screw it up before scrapping the part :)
I install about 1000 heli-coils every month at my workplace. I usually break or misalign about 6 out of 1000. Then i rip it out with a pair of pliers, retap with the correct size STI tap, try again :) Ripping them out isn't the greatest idea, but for what i'm doing it's not critical.


I've used the Keenserts also, i like them. You just have to take your time and use a punch when driving down the locking pins. The locking pins bend if not hit square from the top using a pin punch.

Definately let us know how the Cadliac head gasket job went.
 

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I work on a fleet of several hundred forklifts driven by immigrant labor that crash into each other like 10,000 pound pool balls daily. Helicoils last only about a week under the abuse of direct hits on the frame. They unravel themselves in the tapped hole and let the bolt strip away. Somehow the timeserts don't get ripped out and hold the bolt snug. No loctite required! Damn good stuff.
 
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