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Discussion Starter #1
Does a 929 have a tip over switch?

If there is a tip over switch, exactly where is it located, and must it be reset after bike has been down? What is the reset procedure?

Bike has sat since last March, and can't get a sound out of it. Headlight goes out when start button is used. Its been so long I can't recall if that's normal when cranking it.

No, that's not normal on headlight-come to think of it. It is fully charged/fueled. I'll look for shorted wire as the fuses are ok.

Help somebody?
 

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The headlight goes completely out when you hit the starter switch? Dimming is normal but going out completely isn't. That sounds like the battery. Even if it appears fully charged using a voltmeter - it could still have a dead cell and fail under a load. Maybe you could swap in a different battery from a friend's bike?
 

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nokwitter : The headlight goes completely out when you hit the starter switch? Dimming is normal but going out completely isn't. That sounds like the battery. Even if it appears fully charged using a voltmeter - it could still have a dead cell and fail under a load. Maybe you could swap in a different battery from a friend's bike?
Or fly in the face of reason and actually jump start it from your car. I know this has been beaten to death, but I have NEVER seen ANYONE have a problem with this and I have done it personally several times without incident.
 

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The headlight is suppose to turn off when you hit the starter switch. Turn the kill switch on and the bike should start right up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will check out your suggestions very shortly.

You can see I have not been on a bike in awhile. Get this question. Don't Honda's have to flip the kill button to 'OFF' when the engine is turned OFF & leave in OFF position till cranking it again? I recall finding a dead battery if I did not do this with Honda I'm certain.

This does not apply to my Suzuki I know.

Woe is me.........................
 

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As an Avionic Tech, what the hell difference would it make jump starting from a car?  12v is 12v is 12v.

The tip over switch is reset after a tip over by turning off the key and restarting.

Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn on the key?  If not, put the run switch on the right bar to on/run. Does the pump prime now?  The circle with the X is the doesnt run position.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
sonic,

Yes, I hear it prime each time the kill switch is flipped to the ON position. The side stand is up and clutch lever engaged when start button is pushed..........with the headlight still cutting off when the start button is engaged.

Not a sound beyond the priming sequence.
 

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soniccbr : As an Avionic Tech, what the hell difference would it make jump starting from a car?  12v is 12v is 12v.

The tip over switch is reset after a tip over by turning off the key and restarting.

Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn on the key?  If not, put the run switch on the right bar to on/run. Does the pump prime now?  The circle with the X is the doesnt run position.
I mentioned it this way only because several people on this and quite a few other forums have been told that they should never jump start the bike from a car (??) as it would 'burn up the voltage regulator'. I totally agree with you, but didn't want to turn this into another debate about jump starting your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just 'carefully' attempted to 'boost off' the bike.

Used a 100 amp charger-booster I have. My daughter was point person on the outside current. On demand she plugged in the boost unit to power it up. As always to start, the clutch lever is in, side stand up, kill switch to ON. No more than 4-5 seconds max of current was allowed to run into the bike. And we still got nothing/not a sound when I engaged the START button. *NOTE* The headlight still cut out when START button was engaged.

I am lost now as to the problem, because if it was the battery as alluded to, didn't we just clear up that issue? By the way, I used this battery (honda unit) in my busa in Myrtle Beach last month, without incident. What else could cause this problem now, other than a short in the electrical system?

Anyone else want to step up to the plate for a swing (with an idea to try out on this no engine start problem)? I'll catch.
 

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If the battery has a dead cell, even boosting it won't necessarily get the bike to start.  I have seen batteries with an 'open' cell (similar to a blown fuse) that won't allow current transfer at all.  I would still try and jump it from a running car before I started tearing things apart.  I don't remember if you said that you checked the fuses, but I'm guessing you did . . .

just re-read your original post: you did check the fuses.
 

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Well I can tell you it's not the tip over switch because when I had a low side the bike cranked over but wouldn't start until I cycled the key. Then it started right up. I would try to bang on the started solenoid while holding down the starter switch. If you can get to it.  If nothing else push start it just to make sure it runs and everything else is fine.
 

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OntheEdge : Well I can tell you it's not the tip over switch because when I had a low side the bike cranked over but wouldn't start until I cycled the key. Then it started right up. I would try to bang on the started solenoid while holding down the starter switch. If you can get to it.  If nothing else push start it just to make sure it runs and everything else is fine.
If the battery is dead, push starting may get it to fire, but not run. It takes several seconds above 3K before the alternator will swing a charge, and even then, if the battery is dead (or open) it won't keep the ignition and fuel pump running.
 

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abtech : Quote (OntheEdge @ June 15 2003, 9:18pm)Well I can tell you it's not the tip over switch because when I had a low side the bike cranked over but wouldn't start until I cycled the key. Then it started right up. I would try to bang on the started solenoid while holding down the starter switch. If you can get to it.  If nothing else push start it just to make sure it runs and everything else is fine.
If the battery is dead, push starting may get it to fire, but not run.  It takes several seconds above 3K before the alternator will swing a charge, and even then, if the battery is dead (or open) it won't keep the ignition and fuel pump running.
But then atleast he would know its the battery
 

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Discussion Starter #16
1st off, this bike is not in warranty. I bought it with 1156 miles on it as a cosmetic repair in October 2001. No more than 2K added to that until 3/16/2002, when I was hit.

Excellent points guys, but remember we have bypassed the battery as power by my using the battery charger/booster I have. I removed the battery and simply connected the pos/neg leads of the booster to the battery's unattached wires. It should have cranked up if the battery had been the problem. Right?

Pushing starting it would be next move in daylight tomorrow. I also must inform that I did turn the crank when the stator cover/stator was unassembled, by hand/wrench. (I have a habit of removing parts when convenient so I'll not have a problem doing so when/if I need to some other time. Don't laugh. Only simple stuff like the stator unbolting, etc. I would not remove the cylinder head off a working installed motor unless it was necessary, but then its the same difference w/the stator isn't it?) So can rotating the crank like that have something to do with this? I would not think that rotating the crank by hand would be any different than rolling the bike while in gear, right?

I will take this battery up to parts store tomorrow to get it checked out as well. It could indeed show a hot charge and still have a bad cell.

I'll holler with my results tomorrow. Appreciate all you guys assistance.
 

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When you hit the starter button, can you hear a click coming from the starter relay switch? You've got a 929, but on my 954 that relay is located right behind the battery.

I ask because, according to the manual (for a 954 but should be about the same) if you can hear it click you're supposed to try applying battery voltage directly to the starter motor. If the starter runs that way, then it's a problem with the starter motor cable or the relay switch. If the starter doesn't run that way - then it's the starter motor itself.

If that relay doesn't click - then you need to check and see if battery voltage is getting to it when the start button is pressed. If it isn't getting voltage, the problem is with the ignition switch, starter switch or just a loose connector somewhere. If it is getting voltage but doesn't click - then the starter relay switch is bad or the connector is loose. By the way, on my bike the yellow/red wire at the connector is the positive side.

The first thing the manual mentions though, is that you need to be sure the battery, main and sub fuses are good. I know you said you checked, just thought I'd repeat it.

Hope something in this post helps you out.
 

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abtech : Quote (OntheEdge @ June 15 2003, 9:18pm)Well I can tell you it's not the tip over switch because when I had a low side the bike cranked over but wouldn't start until I cycled the key. Then it started right up. I would try to bang on the started solenoid while holding down the starter switch. If you can get to it.  If nothing else push start it just to make sure it runs and everything else is fine.
If the battery is dead, push starting may get it to fire, but not run.  It takes several seconds above 3K before the alternator will swing a charge, and even then, if the battery is dead (or open) it won't keep the ignition and fuel pump running.
He said the headlight worked fine so I figure the battery has plenty enough juice to run the bike if push started. The headlight takes more amprage then the coils, fuel pump, and ECU. Anyway Nok has some good advice for you to try.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Guys, I want to thank all of you on your sleuthing for me on the dilemma.

It was the starter button wiring harness to right clipon, that was causing the shutoff of current when pressing starter button.

Alll is well.
 
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