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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so my bike hopes out of 2nd and 3rd....im under the impression i need new engagement dogs....and ill probably need more when i get in there, but my question is where are the dogs...they are mentioned in my manual, but never talked about.....i have no idea where they are. what section would they be under in a parts list? will someone please help???
 

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ok so my bike hopes out of 2nd and 3rd....im under the impression i need new engagement dogs....and ill probably need more when i get in there, but my question is where are the dogs...they are mentioned in my manual, but never talked about.....i have no idea where they are. what section would they be under in a parts list? will someone please help???
The "dogs" are part of the gear.
They lock into slots in adjacent gears to hold them together.
You need to replace the complete gear if the dogs or slots are rounded off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the reply....... but that kinda sucks....do you know if i have to crack the case to get to the gears ?.....i almost think a new engine would be easier and cheaper then getting the gears replaced....anyone have any ballpark price differences?
 

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What kind of bike is it. Also if you do decide to attempt this inspect the shift forks closely. I went through this a long time ago when I was a kid with a Yamaha FZ. I went to a local mechanic for some advice before tearing into it and he told me to look for a "bent shift fork" if the dogs were rounded. I tore it apart and the forks looked fine to me. Dogs were rounded and I just assumed that with the clutchless shifting the gears were not fully engaging, and put the new gears in and reassembled. A little over a month later same thing started happening. Tore it apart again and the dogs were rounded again. Took the forks into the mechanic and he wiggled the fork on the shaft a little bit and told me that little amount of slop was enough to cause it to slip out. So if you do tear into it don't just replace the gears and reassemble thinking it is good. That was a very long time ago and I haven't dug that deep into a newer generation motorcycle, yet thank god. Good luck and get as much advise as you can before starting that project.
 

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thanks for the reply....... but that kinda sucks....do you know if i have to crack the case to get to the gears ?.....i almost think a new engine would be easier and cheaper then getting the gears replaced....anyone have any ballpark price differences?
Yes, you need to flip the engine upside down and split the cases.
If it's been a problem for a while it's quite likely the forks are bent as well from trying to hold it in gear.
If you buy another engine I'd recommend riding the bike first to know if its transmission is okay as there's no way to tell if it's good until you have it installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
o yea, it would have helped if i said what bike it was.......its a 98 cbr 900rr.....but lack of money is limiting what i can do with this problem.....does anyone think that replacing the shift forks cud give me some temp fix. i know i need to fix it all, but i cant at the moment.
 

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o yea, it would have helped if i said what bike it was.......its a 98 cbr 900rr.....but lack of money is limiting what i can do with this problem.....does anyone think that replacing the shift forks cud give me some temp fix. i know i need to fix it all, but i cant at the moment.
Not if it's jumping out of gear.
Shift forks generally cause it to not go into gear.
If you treat it gently does it stay in gear?
 

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if i treat it gently, it will always pop out at 3k....
Dogs are rounded off then I'd say.
Best bet would be to skip over the bad gears until you're able to get in there and fix it. First to fourth though is a big leap unless you dramatically lower your gearing. I never get into fourth around town.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ive been doing 1st to forth for a while now....its not that bad, just sucks in cornering....im either going to do one of 3 things: trade it for a different bike, get a new engine, or spend 1300 bucks to get the tranny fixed....i like the new engine idea, i just think its risky when i can spend the same and know everything is perfect by getting the tranny fixed (because engine-wise my bike is fine, i just have this damn tranny prob)....or trade it as is for something else....what do yall think?
 

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ive been doing 1st to forth for a while now....its not that bad, just sucks in cornering....im either going to do one of 3 things: trade it for a different bike, get a new engine, or spend 1300 bucks to get the tranny fixed....i like the new engine idea, i just think its risky when i can spend the same and know everything is perfect by getting the tranny fixed (because engine-wise my bike is fine, i just have this damn tranny prob)....or trade it as is for something else....what do yall think?

If you lower the gearing a lot you can probably ride around in fourth without too much trouble - I'm running -1/+5 on my 929 but I still rarely get up to fourth around town.
I can't imagine it's worth much as a trade or sale with a bad transmission. What have you been offered?
I agree, I prefer to build my stuff rather than take on somebody else's potential problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
well, i would prefer to fix the tranny, then everything would be tip top, but thats about 1300 and i thinkl that i can trade it for a smaller 600 flat out and be alright, tho driving a 600 after a 900 aint really too great....i guess i will prolly just keep skipping, and change some gearing to accommodate till i can fix it....its just that i can get a whole other bike for 1300, tho this one is a keeper once its tranny works right
 

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well, i would prefer to fix the tranny, then everything would be tip top, but thats about 1300 and i thinkl that i can trade it for a smaller 600 flat out and be alright, tho driving a 600 after a 900 aint really too great....i guess i will prolly just keep skipping, and change some gearing to accommodate till i can fix it....its just that i can get a whole other bike for 1300, tho this one is a keeper once its tranny works right

I would think you could trade it for an older 600 but I'd be surprised if it'd get you a 600 of similar age?
I would think you'd be better off repairing it and then selling it privately - trading is a very expensive way to buy a bike. The market and price for a bike with a stuffed 'box can't be very good?
How long have you had it and was the transmission messed up when you bought it?
Riding 600's is no backward step as long as you ride them as designed. If you like to get up to top gear and stay there then you shouldn't be riding sportsbikes at all, but moreso with the 600's. Keep it in the right gear and you won't be giving much up to the 900's if anything at all.
On a track or twisty roads I'd be surprised if you didn't even enjoy the 600's more than the 900.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well i would be fine with and older 600, but i would only dislike the difference in peppiness....but i only drive it to school, and lots of cruises on twisty rds....but the last 600cc bike i had was a katana, and i would hate to go back to that......ill see what offers i get for it, and if nothing, ill just save up and fix the tranny....hopefully its not much more then 1300
 

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well i would be fine with and older 600, but i would only dislike the difference in peppiness....but i only drive it to school, and lots of cruises on twisty rds....but the last 600cc bike i had was a katana, and i would hate to go back to that......ill see what offers i get for it, and if nothing, ill just save up and fix the tranny....hopefully its not much more then 1300
The Katana 600 is way over-weight for it's power output.
 

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yea i know....an older 600 cbr has a way better power-to-weight ratio rite?
basically it would be much faster then a katana, but not quite what im used to now rite?

The earlier Katana 600 was 200kg and maybe 70hp and after about '98 they gained 8kg but no more power.
The F3 runs around 185kg and 90hp.
In '99 the F4 finally got an aluminium frame and dropped to 170kg but I don't think it made much more power even after it was injected in '01.
The F4 would be nice but it'd be worth riding an F3 as well as they're very capable bikes.
I'd expect the F3 to be faster than the Katana and certainly it'd be more capable in the twisties but I wouldn't say the difference is huge exactly.
The F4 is very similar to the 900RR in acceleration and top speed so I don't know that it'd be anything less than you're used to now. Around 10.5 second quarter and 160mph top speed for the 900RR (when it was new of course) and 11.0 seconds and 155mph for the F4. The extra weight of the F3 adds half a second but top speed doesn't change much if at all.
Can't find numbers for the Katana 600 but I'd guess around 12.5 seconds and 130mph (hopeless aerodynamics). Maybe 40 meters behind the F3 at the end of the quarter mile.
Numbers:
Honda Motorcycle Performance Numbers & Honda Street Bike Quarter Mile Times at Sport Rider

The F3 and F4 are great bikes but I'd lean towards the GSXR6 and ZX6R myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yea that sounds about like what i thought it would be.....id love a gsxr or zx6, but out here in GA, everyone has one, so i like to be unique.....im actually talking to a guy with an F3, but it looks rough.....but its engine and tranny strong....so weel c how that goes
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ok....600 just aint a 900, so im gona shop around for a new engine....its so lame that i can find 954, and 1000 engines for about 800 all day long, but my 98 engine is gona be around 1400....whats up with that?
 

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ok....600 just aint a 900, so im gona shop around for a new engine....its so lame that i can find 954, and 1000 engines for about 800 all day long, but my 98 engine is gona be around 1400....whats up with that?
I would guess that if you were chasing a 954 or 1000 they'd be $1400 and the 900RR would be $800 - at least that's how it works for me :)
 
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