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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok i'm not new to wrenchin on my own bikes but this is a new one. just got a basket case 929 that has been stolen 3 or 4 times so the ignition only needed a flathead screwdriver to start. i decided to wire in a toggle switch and basicly "hot wire" it so i could take the barrel off completely but the fuel pump won't come on. i tried just jumping the wire through a relay and also a fuse but all i get are lights and the dash but no fuel pump. there are 4 wires, solid red, red w/black stripe, blue w/red stripe, and a small pink one. this is a bummer cuz now it won't start at all and a replacment ignition is at least a week away.:thumbd: i did this on my gsxr and had no problems (got lucky?).
 

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ok i'm not new to wrenchin on my own bikes but this is a new one. just got a basket case 929 that has been stolen 3 or 4 times so the ignition only needed a flathead screwdriver to start. i decided to wire in a toggle switch and basicly "hot wire" it so i could take the barrel off completely but the fuel pump won't come on. i tried just jumping the wire through a relay and also a fuse but all i get are lights and the dash but no fuel pump. there are 4 wires, solid red, red w/black stripe, blue w/red stripe, and a small pink one. this is a bummer cuz now it won't start at all and a replacment ignition is at least a week away.:thumbd: i did this on my gsxr and had no problems (got lucky?).
There's a diode on the ignition switch that you need.
 

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What bladeracer says, the pink wire needs to have ~4v difference to the main supply rail, so a 3.7v Zener Diode will do the job nicely, Radioshack, Newark or other local electronics place will be able to supply you one for next to nothing in cost.
 

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I think this might be the cause of my problems as well!

I fried the ECU on my AUS bike (HISS) so I bought a US model ECU and wired it into the AUS harness. There's a few wires different - but when you trace back what they all are - the AUS model doesn't have emissions controls and O2 sensor, and the US one doesn't have HISS. When you ignore all the wires from those you're left with only the pink wire which is in a different pin.

I was told that the pink wire just needed to be re-pinned and spliced in (obviously bad info) so that's what I've done - connected it up to 12v from the ignition. Now the fuel ECU is stopping the fuel pump from priming.

I'll get a zener diode tomorrow and hopefully have the bike working on the weekend.

Lesson learnt: CHECK YOUR REGULATOR GROUND OFTEN!
 

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I think this might be the cause of my problems as well!

I fried the ECU on my AUS bike (HISS) so I bought a US model ECU and wired it into the AUS harness. There's a few wires different - but when you trace back what they all are - the AUS model doesn't have emissions controls and O2 sensor, and the US one doesn't have HISS. When you ignore all the wires from those you're left with only the pink wire which is in a different pin.

I was told that the pink wire just needed to be re-pinned and spliced in (obviously bad info) so that's what I've done - connected it up to 12v from the ignition. Now the fuel ECU is stopping the fuel pump from priming.

I'll get a zener diode tomorrow and hopefully have the bike working on the weekend.

Lesson learnt: CHECK YOUR REGULATOR GROUND OFTEN!
Definately let us know if you can get it to work without replacing the harness.
US bikes don't have the O2 sensor either though so you must've bought a Cali ECU?
 

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I think this might be the cause of my problems as well!

I fried the ECU on my AUS bike (HISS) so I bought a US model ECU and wired it into the AUS harness. There's a few wires different - but when you trace back what they all are - the AUS model doesn't have emissions controls and O2 sensor, and the US one doesn't have HISS. When you ignore all the wires from those you're left with only the pink wire which is in a different pin.

I was told that the pink wire just needed to be re-pinned and spliced in (obviously bad info) so that's what I've done - connected it up to 12v from the ignition. Now the fuel ECU is stopping the fuel pump from priming.

I'll get a zener diode tomorrow and hopefully have the bike working on the weekend.

Lesson learnt: CHECK YOUR REGULATOR GROUND OFTEN!
Good luck hope you get it all working. Are you using a toggle to get electrics going??? any pics?
 

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strange issue here.

i just bought a bunch of 04-07 1krr parts - piecing a runner together, 1k mileage engine, woohoo - and the ignition looks as if it has NEVER had a diode in it. has a key, still attached to the stock triples, with the oem security bolts, matching cap, stuff looks new since its under 1k.

as i understand it, the 04-07 1000s had diodes, right? im not sure what year the parts are but i will post some pics of the bottom of the ignition.

anyone seen this before?

blade?
 

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I busted off my key on my 07 1000, just 2 wires running to the ignition. Put those together and the bike turns on and starts up with no issue.
 

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hotwire for 929 is easy, you need the black circle plastic piece just inside the bottom if the ignition housing where your 4 wires are soldered. Remove this from the ignition, throw rest of ignition in trash. You can cut your main red wire off at the solder. Make a jumper wire, solder jumperwire to the low side of the diode,if ur unsure use a meter,it s the side with no power, once you jumpers soldered on all you have to do is twist the unsoldered end of the jumper to your red power wire you already cut,thats it, fuel pump primes,its all same as key, and once done obviously you can run and hide a switch wherever you want to hide it,i have hidden switch on my bike and like it way more than a key that i will lose for sure
 

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hotwire for 929 is easy, you need the black circle plastic piece just inside the bottom if the ignition housing where your 4 wires are soldered. Remove this from the ignition, throw rest of ignition in trash. You can cut your main red wire off at the solder. Make a jumper wire, solder jumperwire to the low side of the diode,if ur unsure use a meter,it s the side with no power, once you jumpers soldered on all you have to do is twist the unsoldered end of the jumper to your red power wire you already cut,thats it, fuel pump primes,its all same as key, and once done obviously you can run and hide a switch wherever you want to hide it,i have hidden switch on my bike and like it way more than a key that i will lose for sure
That's interesting considering that the ignition switch has inherent resistance in it that the rating for the ZENER takes into account to get the voltage to the right amount. I just helped a guy get one running on a quad, all he had was the ZENER and it wouldn't run without a 100 ohm resistor wired in.
 

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hotwire for 929 is easy, you need the black circle plastic piece just inside the bottom if the ignition housing where your 4 wires are soldered. Remove this from the ignition, throw rest of ignition in trash. You can cut your main red wire off at the solder. Make a jumper wire, solder jumperwire to the low side of the diode,if ur unsure use a meter,it s the side with no power, once you jumpers soldered on all you have to do is twist the unsoldered end of the jumper to your red power wire you already cut,thats it, fuel pump primes,its all same as key, and once done obviously you can run and hide a switch wherever you want to hide it,i have hidden switch on my bike and like it way more than a key that i will lose for sure
Do you remember the wire colours? what was conected where?
 

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I have an 07 1000 as a race bike. Key broke off in the ignition. I just cut the cable and twisted the wires together. Bike came right on no issues.
 

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Definately let us know if you can get it to work without replacing the harness.
US bikes don't have the O2 sensor either though so you must've bought a Cali ECU?
Two and a half years later, I thought I'd update: Yes putting the diode on the pink wire worked. I just spliced it in down near the ECU.

You can't have pics because I don't own the bike anymore ;)
 
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