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Hi all, I just had my bike set up at my local dyno, and the servo gave up toward the end of the session. We took the bike home and i stripped the servo to find all the teeth missing from one of the gears. So i started making some phone calls only to get people quoting daft prices (£250 new) I was hoping at that price it would have gold plated gears, but no, just plastic. Even the breakers were wanting £120 for something that looked like it had been dredged from the bottom of a pond.

So whilst i was trawling the net for a solution, i came across a thread, on this site, where some guy knew of a guy who had replaced his servo with an RR4/RR5 servo. It was all a bit vague, but I took a chance and bought one from a RR4 off EBad for £60 posted. All i had to do was fit the mounting bracket from my old servo and i was back on the road.

All i can say is that the servo is (externally) identical to the one that came off, and saved me nearly £200 on the price of a new one. I took the bike round the block last night and everything is back to normal.

Hope this helps others in the same situation I found myself last week,

Shaun
 

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Hi all, I just had my bike set up at my local dyno, and the servo gave up toward the end of the session. We took the bike home and i stripped the servo to find all the teeth missing from one of the gears. So i started making some phone calls only to get people quoting daft prices (£250 new) I was hoping at that price it would have gold plated gears, but no, just plastic. Even the breakers were wanting £120 for something that looked like it had been dredged from the bottom of a pond.

So whilst i was trawling the net for a solution, i came across a thread, on this site, where some guy knew of a guy who had replaced his servo with an RR4/RR5 servo. It was all a bit vague, but I took a chance and bought one from a RR4 off EBad for £60 posted. All i had to do was fit the mounting bracket from my old servo and i was back on the road.

All i can say is that the servo is (externally) identical to the one that came off, and saved me nearly £200 on the price of a new one. I took the bike round the block last night and everything is back to normal.

Hope this helps others in the same situation I found myself last week,

Shaun

Outstanding, and very good of you to post the information for others. Good stuff.
 

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Hi there, l have not long put my 929 back together after cracking the sump. l think l now have a servo problem. Bike running like a pig low down and then shoots away when you give it a bit of throttle. Just read your piece on rr4. Does this work better than 929 part
 

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Interesting thread! I heard about this but nobody comfirmed yet.

What i wanted to know, if you (or anybody else) has opened a 1000rr (04-05) servo too?
Are the gearings inside from the same material? I found mine (929 01') like this:
I want to know if these servo's are worth the buck or i better go for a servo buddy and leave these crappy servo's.

 

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All of the ones I have seen disassembled, the gears were all nylon. They are cheap to make, quiet and don't need lubrication like metal gears. So Honda hasn't moved to metal gears in future models. Do you have the stock valve or have you bypassed it? There is debate if having the valve wide open causes power loss anywhere in the power band. So if you still have the valve and want it working, then you can just get a replacement motor but it too will face the same fate at some point. If you have an original motor, it has lasted 16 years. As listed above, you can use a later model, so you can buy what is cheaper. I would also check the valve and all of the cables to make sure nothing is binding which could shorten the lifespan of the gears.
 

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All of the ones I have seen disassembled, the gears were all nylon. They are cheap to make, quiet and don't need lubrication like metal gears. So Honda hasn't moved to metal gears in future models. Do you have the stock valve or have you bypassed it? There is debate if having the valve wide open causes power loss anywhere in the power band. So if you still have the valve and want it working, then you can just get a replacement motor but it too will face the same fate at some point. If you have an original motor, it has lasted 16 years. As listed above, you can use a later model, so you can buy what is cheaper. I would also check the valve and all of the cables to make sure nothing is binding which could shorten the lifespan of the gears.
I have the valve and cables still there but moved the servo in the open position. I think its less powerfull in de mid section, used to be more agressive, or i just lost a few horses down the road :)

I allready changed the two cables for the valve in the pipe, the valve in the airbox seems very easy to open, almost effortless.
Can someone tell me how easy it should be to rotate the servo manualy? Is it like throtlle the bike with 2 fingers or harder for exemple?
 
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