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Discussion Starter #1
First valve check (probably ever) for this bike. :idunno: '02 954RR

Well the clearances are: (mm)

cyl1:
EX: .26 , .20 IN: .15 , .14

cyl 2:
EX: .28 , .23 IN: .15 , .15

cyl 3:
EX: .26 , .24 IN: .15 , .15

cyl 4:
EX: .23 , .23 IN: .15 , .14

Not too bad eh??
Only have to pull the exhaust cam.


Just thought I'd throw this out there as reference.

Cam coming out today or tomorrow morning.

Helpful tips appreciated! :thumb:
I plan on marking the hell out of the chain and cam sprocket with a paint marker to keep the timing correct...
 

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Impressive! I did mine at 28k miles and had 12 that were either out of spec or just on the edge! Also the hardest part of the service for me was getting the cam caps off. The dowel pins hold them down really well. I had to use some unholy methods to get them off but all is well since I didn't break anything :smilebig:
 

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Magic marker all 3 areas meaning; the 1-4 is at TDC, the in-ex-cs sprockets to chain links are marked... if chain drops off the crank and all that. I roll my cam rather than pull the cam out. R&R shims then roll the cam back, roll the other cam and change out the other side shims.
 

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Also the hardest part of the service for me was getting the cam caps off.
X the cam cap bolts off. Meaning; if they come off loose, starting on the one side cocks the cap on the dowel. By crisscrossing, tap the cap so the spring tension pops the caps up all even. Meaning; by X'ing the cap bolts and the cap has not moved, have the bolts evenly raised off the cap, then tap the cap so the cap runs straight up the dowels. Bottom of bolt to cap is no higher than placing a business card between the gap.

Make sense?
 

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X the cam cap bolts off. Meaning; if they come off loose, starting on the one side cocks the cap on the dowel. By crisscrossing, tap the cap so the spring tension pops the caps up all even. Meaning; by X'ing the cap bolts and the cap has not moved, have the bolts evenly raised off the cap, then tap the cap so the cap runs straight up the dowels. Bottom of bolt to cap is no higher than placing a business card between the gap.

Make sense?
When I did the service I tried this and all the methods I could find online but the caps were fitted so tightly i ended up using a paint scraper and hammer to wedge them off carefully. I do not recommend this method unless it is a last resort effort and you can't pay someone to do it for you.
 

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Had mine (929) done last month, first time i think on 50k miles, only one shim was out, and only a smidgen, gotta love Hondas, and their fastidious owners.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got it done and running today, all in spec!

The 2 things that took the longest were the CCT (made a tensioner tool out of a feeler gauge), and the bottom throttle cable (took an hour for some reason...).

Everything else was pretty straight forward.

Really took my time with the caps and raising them evenly.
Marked both cam gear/chain in 3 places with a paint marker, put them back properly.

Not too shabby. :D
 

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I had a really good and honest mech, when I lived in another area of the city and when I asked him if he'd check my old 929rr valve clearances, he replied that he has yet to have found one (cbr's in general) out of spec (including a 954rr on 70K!!), on checking them, and said he wouldn't waste my time or cash
 

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I am about to do mine for the first time EVER in doing this sort of thing, I bought the bike as a 1 owner from new who used it for touring on. He seemed to let the mechanics do the work like servicing and maintenance. The bike had 39,500 miles on the clock and he was an old guy in his 50s. The rear tyre is squaring off which i have not replaced yet but will replace both of them in the next week or so. The reason i am wanting to do mine is because i have some engine tapping going on which i took a few videos off if anybody would like to give me there opinion on. The bike just feels under powered and refuses to go past 150 mph ( Private road of course) :plus1:which i find very strange.

I did find out while investigating that cylinder 4s coil was loose and refused to click in tight like the other 3 do so i am waiting on some coils to arrive which should be here today or tomorrow.

I will also be doing a compression test and a leak down test to see the outcome, that should give me some idea hopefully.

Would anybody like to see the vids? I would appreciate your input and advice.

I will Start my own thread if that is the case, Just thought i would give my input as i too will be giving my finds on the clearances as i have no idea if they have been done as he never touched the bike.
 

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My bike is currently in the garage having some work done. It's a 929 with 24k on the clock, purely a road bike. I asked the guy about the valve clearances, because although it has a full service history, and so in theory ought to have had them done at 16k, I have no way of knowing if they actually were done. The guy said that on a Honda he doesn't usually do them until around 30k, as they don't really need it, and if they haven't been done at 30k then he doesn't bother to do them anyway.

However, because my bike is being tuned by him, he said he would put some kind of machine, I forget the name of it, onto some part of the engine, that can sense the relevant information and if required they would be altered, but if it was running fine then it will be left as it is. It will be going on a dyno etc. as part of the work.

I hope that is of use. Anyone know the machine he is talking about?
 

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New to forum and new to cbr's. Got mine as a stolen bike at police auction about a year ago and took it apart to paint (was running at the time, but hard to start). Got it painted and put back together and rode it on short ride up the road and parked it. Next day started it and it was running rough, noticed dead #1 cylinder. Shut it off and messed with it some and then wouldnt start at all. Did compression test and all 4 cylinders were 90psi. Did a valve check today and all are in spec.
 
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