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Always being up for an experiment:
  • Cold brakes
  • I put a bolt through my bobbins and gently tightened up with nylon washer/metal washer & nut
  • Then I saw how easy the bobbin would rotate
  • And, then rotated them 5 turns, slowly
Results:
  • the right hand disc bobbins were initially a little stiff, freed after 180 degrees of rotation, but, even now they are not "free spinning".
  • the left hand disc bobbins were initially much more stiff and, I could see "dust" falling out of the joint, where the wavy expansion washer sits
  • the below pictures are after performing the above on all of the LH disc bobbins (no dust at all from the RH disc)
  • They also freed up similar to the RH disc bobbins
Frankly speaking, I was not expecting that :unsure:

Edit: Apologies, this was on a 1993 RR-P with 35k miles on what look like the original discs.

106701

106702
 

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Have a look at this lad, his video's are always good and thought evoking (y)
Hah! Yes, he was No. 2 that I referred to. He makes some good points (new disc bobbins being stiff, heat creating clearances), and the special design EBC bobbins are interesting, but not directly relevant, but, he doesn't consider the effects of age (corrosion, wear, debris).

The bigger challenge to his theoretical view, is that people with direct practical experience of brake vibration, tidy up their bobbins and the vibration goes away ....... in lieu of Brembo/Nissin experts, I'm interested in these people with practical experience.
 

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Disc don't have to the 'warped' in the conventional sense to create vibration, they can also suffer from thickness variations. You only need a few thousands of an inch variation to cause bad pulsing/vibration.
 

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I completely agree BennelliBlade.

I am looking for the low cost maintenance solutions that can be tried, before we end up having to shell out for discs.

I also found a couple of references to "glazing" with the maintenance tip being to ScotchBright and then clean the disc rotors:



Doctor VStrom is a hoot!
 

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. . . I also found a couple of references to "glazing" with the maintenance tip being to ScotchBright and then clean the disc rotors . . .
Gee, am I getting too old?

Whatever happened to taking the bike to a long straight road and doing 100 mph to zero to deglaze?

Better still, why not give up the 'pussy' stops so the discs DON'T glaze! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
By chance, are you using stock brake lever? do you know if your master cylinder is stock or aftermarket?
I have a brembo rcs 18x20 / 19

BTW I have bad news, I had an accident when going to work, someone decided not to brake in a yield sign. I hope the insurance company repairs my bike 馃槶馃槶馃槶馃槶馃槶
 

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Eek. Sorry to hear that. Also hope your insurance company is at least 'half alright' although in many of these cases they apply 'contributory negligence' to the claimant on the basis that they should have entered the intersection at a speed at which they could stop. Just be prepared;)
 

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BTW I have bad news, I had an accident when going to work, someone decided not to brake in a yield sign. I hope the insurance company repairs my bike 馃槶馃槶馃槶馃槶馃槶
Sorry to hear that, Anon. I hope you are back on your repaired bike, ASAP. (y)
 

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The 320 Full Floating Brembos I had on my 93 made a hell of a racket when I shook them, or when it was rolled around over a bump. They had an amazing amount of "play" in the bobbins.

The "semi-floating" OEM type on our old blades don't move at all, and would suggest that they only "move" to accommodate the smallest amount of "float" at extremely high temps, so it would be easy to warp them. I'll have to look at my bobbins, because I know the discs don't move at all. Even the track bike with the EBC rotors don't move. Those old Brembo's were a serious bit of kit.
106780


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It is fascinating that even this EBC expert has got a key point wrong, while claiming that: Most articles written so far on this topic are simply 鈥淲rong.鈥 馃し鈥嶁檪锔:

 
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