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Discussion Starter #1
Alright guys,

2006 cbr600 f4i, 25,500 miles
This is my first bike and I bought it used. It ran great without any problems for the first 200ish miles. (back and forth from work. Over 15 days or so)

What is happening is, I'll start the bike and let it warm up. The temperature gauge will claim all the way up to 230 over the course of 7 or so minutes, only ideling. 80-90 degree day.

0-219 degrees the voltage is @ 13.9-14.2 --RPM 1.5k
220 and up the voltage immediately drops to 12.6 and continues to decline. And the RPMS drop to 800-1000
If I turn the bike off, I can not start it back up. It acts as if the battery is dead / dying. If I replace the battery with a new battery while the bike is still hot the new battery acts as if it's dead. Once it cools back off. It starts without a problem.

The fan never kicks on.
The fan not coming on is going to be the next thing I look into.

Things I've replaced.
Starter
R/R
starter relay
stator.


At what point should the fan be kicking on?
 

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2,469 Posts
Alright guys,

2006 cbr600 f4i, 25,500 miles
This is my first bike and I bought it used. It ran great without any problems for the first 200ish miles. (back and forth from work. Over 15 days or so)

What is happening is, I'll start the bike and let it warm up. The temperature gauge will claim all the way up to 230 over the course of 7 or so minutes, only ideling. 80-90 degree day.

0-219 degrees the voltage is @ 13.9-14.2 --RPM 1.5k
220 and up the voltage immediately drops to 12.6 and continues to decline. And the RPMS drop to 800-1000
If I turn the bike off, I can not start it back up. It acts as if the battery is dead / dying. If I replace the battery with a new battery while the bike is still hot the new battery acts as if it's dead. Once it cools back off. It starts without a problem.

The fan never kicks on.
The fan not coming on is going to be the next thing I look into.

Things I've replaced.
Starter
R/R
starter relay
stator.


At what point should the fan be kicking on?
Hi at 219, that's when the fan should kick in, maybe the loss of voltage is because of that , the fan draws a lot of voltage when running , check the 10amp fuse and connections at the fan switch could be a broken wire:wink
P.S. have you checked with a separate source that the fan works
 

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The solution to your problem:......drumroll please....

The idle is too low. It should be around 1200. The charging system is discharging the battery below that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi at 219, that's when the fan should kick in, maybe the loss of voltage is because of that , the fan draws a lot of voltage when running , check the 10amp fuse and connections at the fan switch could be a broken wire:wink
P.S. have you checked with a separate source that the fan works
Fan isnt coming on because of the Radiator Fan Temp Switch.
I gounded the fan out and it worked fine.
Ordered a need switch but I now dont think thats the problem

What else should I look at?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The solution to your problem:......drumroll please....

The idle is too low. It should be around 1200. The charging system is discharging the battery below that.
Bike idles at 1500-1600 RPMs all the way up until the second the temp gauge says 220 then it drops to 1100-1200ish
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Should have had the fault code show up for it , but worth a check out:wink
ok, So the ohms SHOULD read, 2.3-2.6----- Mine is reading 2.03 ohms.

Volts SHOULD read , 4.75-5.25------- Mine is reading 5.1 Volts.


So, the ohms are out of tolerance by .27 ohms... Think that is enough to call the ECT bad?
 

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ok, So the ohms SHOULD read, 2.3-2.6----- Mine is reading 2.03 ohms.

Volts SHOULD read , 4.75-5.25------- Mine is reading 5.1 Volts.


So, the ohms are out of tolerance by .27 ohms... Think that is enough to call the ECT bad?
Morning , just got up 6.20 here, assume ECT ok. Need to check 12v at the fan connector, between the Black/Blue and Green wire with ignition on, still could be the the Fan Motor Switch:smile
 

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What voltage should the fan plug be reading?

If it is the fan temp switch ill be extremely happy. :)
That voltage is good enough, if you have a look at You Tube you will see how the Switch works . it needs the heat on two different metals ,one expands completes the circuit and the fan switches on, you could always set up a toggle switch of you own to turn the fan on and off, but you will drain the battery faster:wink
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That voltage is good enough, if you have a look at You Tube you will see how the Switch works . it needs the heat on two different metals ,one expands completes the circuit and the fan switches on, you could always set up a toggle switch of you own to turn the fan on and off, but you will drain the battery faster:wink
Im not opposed to hooking up a manual switch. Ill just wait until I get the new switch in and see if that fixes the fan issue.
But, do you think its the reason for the voltage drop @ 220 degrees?

Its causing the bike to pull so much power that I cant start it again until its cooled off. :frown
 

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Im not opposed to hooking up a manual switch. Ill just wait until I get the new switch in and see if that fixes the fan issue.
But, do you think its the reason for the voltage drop @ 220 degrees?

Its causing the bike to pull so much power that I cant start it again until its cooled off. :frown
Think the ECT is working well, that's telling the ECM the temp, and when you come to start straight away it wont because of the ECT , the drainage could be that the fan switch is trying to pull the voltage and its being wasted, but still would check any wires connecting on that circuit while your waiting for the switch to arrive, will find out for sure when the new switch comes, your gonna have to take that switch out, so maybe there's a video on You Tube of how to test it, just to put your fault finding skills to the test:wink
 
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