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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
yadda yadda...Bike's getting HOT...'WTF'

I have just distilled water in my radiator left from a trackday.
I know it's not the best to cool my bike down, but it's getting pretty hot, pretty fast - -I expected more from water to cool my engine down.

Usually, my fan comes on at 222F. Today, I'm sitting at a stoplight watching my bike go from 222, 223, 224......up to 239F. I couldn't tell if my fan turned on or not, signal light turned green, and I took off hoping the air would help cool it (which it did).

The day's expected to get warmer, and traffric is going to suck on my way back home today.
Has anyone just ran water in their cooling system, and does the bike really get this hot? Could it be my fan? :confused:
 

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Pure water is a better coolant than anti freeze and water mix. Something else is wrong, like your fan isn't working, or your cap is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
luvtolean said:
Pure water is a better coolant than anti freeze and water mix. Something else is wrong, like your fan isn't working, or your cap is bad.
Thanks LTL, I wasn't sure about water being a good coolant or not. I'll check my cap before starting my bike up again - make sure the fan connections are ok.
Would there be a fuse for the fan in case it went out? :idunno:
 

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Yes, there should be a fuse for the fan. I'm not sure though which one it is, since I had that problem with my old F3 and not with the 929.
 

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There is a fuse under the seat. 15amp if I remember correctly. I'd say your fan motor switch probaly went kaput. It's located on the radiator and to check it pull the wire and with another wire short it (the wire you just pulled) to chassis. If your fan spins then the sensor is bad. Buy a new one from RonTurner. It's a cheap part.
 

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RC, I have a brand new in the bag "temp sending unit" if you should need it. Let me know.

If the fuse is known to be good, in the manual they show you how to short out the fan to ground to rule out a broken fan motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
freq said:
RC, I have a brand new in the bag "temp sending unit" if you should need it. Let me know.
No way. :thumb:
I'll let you know.

(Nothing boiled over - I didn't see any warning light go on)
 

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luvtolean said:
Pure water is a better coolant than anti freeze and water mix. Something else is wrong, like your fan isn't working, or your cap is bad.

or it is not completely full. did you start the bike after you put the water in it, and let it get up to 180 to open the thermostat so it could be filled?
 

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bubba said:
or it is not completely full. did you start the bike after you put the water in it, and let it get up to 180 to open the thermostat so it could be filled?
Yep. That is true.

RC, change the fuse even if it looks OK and see if your fan comes on.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Found the problem!

I checked the fuses and they were fine.
My radiator cap looked good.
BUT, my water level was super low.

I've changed my radiator fluid a dozen times - and I guess I didn't 'burp' all the air out this last time. I refilled it, started the bike up, and noticed that the temperature was rising much slower than before. It got it up to 223, and the fan kicked in allowing the temperature to slowly decrease.
Bubba, I didn't allow my bike to get to 180 when I changed my fluid the last time. :crap:

Anyway, glad it's not anything major - just a lame fluid change on my part. :rolleyes:
 

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IMHO you should add some sort of additive to lubricate your water pump and keep the seals in it in good condition. Waterwetter by Redline seems to be the 'recommended' brand.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Gblade said:
IMHO you should add some sort of additive to lubricate your water pump and keep the seals in it in good condition. Waterwetter by Redline seems to be the 'recommended' brand.
I bought a bottle just yesterday.
I'll add it when I get home.
(smells fishy) :puke:
 

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RacerCutie said:
I bought a bottle just yesterday.
I'll add it when I get home.
(smells fishy) :puke:
Why the hell are you not running a EG, PG mix? If you absolutly need to put water in there then you better add some water wetter for corosion inhibitance and lube. Heres why:

Why use a Coolant?

----The main purpose of mixing glycol with water is to lower the freezing point and to raise the boiling point of the coolant mixture. Glycol also improves
the anti-corrosion properties of the water. But glycol affects the heat transfer characteristics adversely, to a small extent. Pure ethylene glycol has a thermal conductivity coefficient only 40% that of water. Its thermal diffusivity, a measure of a substance's ability to absorb heat, is about 50% that of water. So, used alone, it is not a very good heat transfer fluid. It is also quite viscous (hard to pump). When glycol is mixed with water, say in the usual ratio of 50:50, the heat transfer capacity of the mixture is reduced, but only about 15% compared to pure water. Everything else being the same, you would have to circulate 15% more coolant volume to get the same cooling effect as water. Conversely, replacing your antifreeze solution with water would improve cooling by 15% or so. A system properly designed for glycol mix should obtain sufficient cooling. But if the heat exchanger (radiator) has been damaged, or has become fouled, then switching to water or a lighter glycol mix could restore some performance. There are not any choices for coolant for service at normal engine temperatures (~200F) that are as benign, cheap and effective as water/glycol mix. Various oils can be used at much higher temperatures Oil plays at least a part in cooling all engines. Some motorcycle engines have oil cooling passages in the head or cylinder walls. Light oil has about the same heat transfer characteristics as pure glycol


Also....Running straight water, regardless of whether it's tap or distilled, usually isn't too good of an idea. Water and the air that will inevitably be mixed in with it will always be corrosive in a cooling system. Also, water pump seals need some sort of lubrication or they'll fail. Never heard of head gasket problems related to pure water, but who knows. Maybe their composition doesn't get along with pure water for some reason. Antifreeze has rust inhibitors in it and acts as a lubricant for the pump seals. These are the exact reasons that companies like Redline came up with products like Water Wetter. Tracks don't allow antifreeze and something needed to fill the gap for corrosion resistance and seal lubrication when running straight water.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sabot slinger said:
Why the hell are you not running a EG, PG mix? If you absolutly need to put water in there then you better add some water wetter for corosion inhibitance and lube.
I knowwwwww. :rolleyes:

This is the first time out of about 8 radiator flushes. It was just for a trackday as I was in a hurry.
I usually run di water/Water Wetter or EngineIce (though I can't use EngineIce for the track).
 

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Your bike gets to 222 before the fan kicks in? I would freak out. Mine gets to 214 when the fan kicks in - never does it go above that and I live in Miami. Ever heard of the Palmetto or I95 traffic jams? Been there for couple of hours without barely moving.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
IT HAPPENED AGAIN!

Bike got HOT. Fan never came on. I was riding to work and noticed the temperature slowly rise. It got to a whopping 250 and it started flashing, red light comes on. I'm thinknig 'awwww crap'.
Light turns green at that moment so I gun it watching the temp. slowly decrease.

So here I am, turning my bike off at each stoplight, trying to get to Hare Racing which is near my work.

My fuses fine, water in the radiator, they unplug my fan and check the connection from the bike to the fan's connection. It's fine. Then the connection to the fan - not working.
Weird.
They're going to give it a good 'once over' just to confirm it's the fan.
Luckily, they have a fan in their shop off a guy's engine swap.

I'll find out later what's really going on. :crap:
 
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