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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've had a blast on my 954rr for the past year+. I bought it late last March with 4500 miles on it, and she now has 13.7k miles. I've noticed that she puffs a little smoke when revved hard at a stop, but after the first or second rev, the smoke stops. This is different from the dark smoke that comes out which I know is from a rich fuel/air mix.

the 9k miles that i've put on her have been mixed riding. It has definitely included hard riding, (i'd rate it right under track riding), as I have yet to track my bike.

Aside from the slip-on two-brothers exhaust that she came with, I installed a K&N air filter and a Power Commander V around 1500 miles ago. After 9k miles of riding, what should I do for my bike? I've obviously done chain and oil maintenance (which she's due for again now), but nothing else, really. Should I do the plugs and wires, brake fluid, coolant flush? I know valve adjustment is at 16k... Just wondering what you guys think. Like always, thanks for any and all input

here's some pics for y'all


 

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Hiya,
If I was you then I would go for the 16,000 full service including valve clearances.
Probably by the time the service takes place you may have covered over 14,000 and done almost 10,000 without an oil change.

I very much doubt the valve clearances will need any adjustment but best to be on the safe side and for your own piece of mind maybe ?.

I keep all my service and other invoices and MOT certificates (UK only) with my bike handbook and service book to help with the sale if I ever come to sell it.

Supertrev :rotfl:

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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Hiya,
If I was you then I would go for the 16,000 full service including valve clearances.
Probably by the time the service takes place you may have covered over 14,000 and done almost 10,000 without an oil change.


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I just want to clear up that it hasn't been 9k miles without an oil change. I've done regular maintenance for oil and chain lol. I don't think I'd have a properly running 954 anymore if I had gone 9k miles without an oil change !
 

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my advice....

i def recommend at least having the valves checked @16,000 but most bikes are still well within spec @16 but the only way to know for sure is to have them checked so i advise it. if anything id wait till it hits at least 16,000. if youre taking it to a dealership to be checked you can expect them to basically put the min acceptable shim in there n if it fits call it adjusted. so if anything id say take it in a little later than early.

i do a coolant flush every couple a years.

i do a brake fluid flush every year because with the mighty vac its about a ten minute job so why not? but you can probably get by with every other year as well.

brake pads typically last me a couple seasons and im hard on them. not all pads are created equal so that will vary. i use cl sbk5's n i can tell you from experience they are worth the extra $. better than ebc imo. some brake pads are funny in that even if there is still good meat on the bone doesnt mean they are still as good as they could be. ive found this is worse on some pads than others and in this respect the cl pads are outstanding. they stay working well all the way to the end n have very little fade n stop on a dime. like i said they are a bit more money but worth every penny.

i do the forks every 2 years or 10,000 miles. some seasons (s indiana) i ride as much as 15,000 miles but others might see less than 10 so i just kinda play it by ear. in your case id def recommend a fork tune up. im gonna assume with those low miles on it when you got it that its the factory oil in there n even if its not used fork oil degrades over time as well as fork seals. the seals might not leak but over time they will soak the oil into them increasing stiction dramatically n that combined with 12 year old fork oil means your ride is nothing like it could be. a fork freshing will blow your mind how much better the bike performed in every way. of course youll hafta re setup the suspension front n back as a result. be sure to use OEM seals or get NOK seals at the very least. they make cheap seals that are about half the cost of the oem or more expensive NOK seals but dont go that route. the NOK is the material the seals are made of n most oem seals are NOK but not all aftermarkets are. so dont go cheap on them. forks are about a 250+$ job at the stealership.

do what i did n ask around your local mc community n find the place everyone takes their bikes to for such work. most likely everyone will point you in the same direction. look for a smaller shop owned by a crusty old guy thats been riding/racing/working on bikes all his life n can actually do a real suspension setup. sure the dealership can do the work well enough but its almost always more expensive than old guy shop owners and their version of a suspension setup usually is turning the clickers to the factory settings n calling it good. suspension setup is not exactly something you can learn from 2 years at uti mc school. it takes ears to really develop that skill to mastery. its a bit of a black art so find someone who can really do the job justice and again youll be blown away how great your bike feels under you when it works like it should. blown away. its really a night and day difference. you in for a treat if you get the forks done and find a capable suspension tuner.

i am lucky enough to have a retired pro AMA suspension tech 20 minutes from my house. he is a wizard. look for your own guru. try n find a local sportbike forum. most decent sized cities have one and you can get a lot of info on local shops n guys that work out of there house like my suspension guy. thats where i found him n he is the business plus he charges about a third of what the dealership does. he likes to help out his fellow riders with his 50 years of professional experience. find you a guy like this.

plugs get changed every 8,000 miles. do it from the top not the front like the manual tells you. much easier.

have a look at the wheel bearings when you get new tires.

manual says every 8,000 miles on oil changes n thats ludacris to me. lol i change my oil every 3-3,500 miles tops. i change the filter every other oil change.

oem filters. the oem filter is dyno proven to make more power in every way over k&N or bmc. just a heads up. its a few hp difference. not saying k&n is bad, they make great products but even with a aftermarket exhaust and a pc n tune the oem makes more power.

i do a cable lube once a year too. its simple n like lubing your chain after every ride or every 200 miles it dramatically increases the lifespan. they make these systems that hook on the top n spray lube down in the cable so its simple n cheaper than new cables.

chains n sprockets are about 10-20,000 miles depending on material n brand and o course regular maintenance. if the sprocket ids hooking or you find the chain has bad tight spots or is at the end of the adjustment get new ones. preferably together. new chain on old sprockets will ruin it with the quickness and vise-a-versa.

get the service manual if you dont already have it. several places on the web to dl it for free or buy it on ebay/amazon.

three things to never go cheap on with these bikes: tires, brakes, chains. just dont.

hope this helps ya out some. everyone might not agree with what ive said n these are just my opinions and how i do my bike. its worked for me on many bikes n i adhere to it like glue.

nice lookin bike btw, but then again i might be partial....
 
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