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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, need some help here...

I just put in new OEM bearings & dust shields in my front & rear wheels for my '02 954. I assembled & torqued everything according to the manual. The problem is that the wheels barely spin when on stands and the bike takes ALOT of effort to roll. I loosened both axles, thinking I overtorqued them, and its still hard to push the bike. I'm thinking that maybe the bearings need to "loosen" up a bit and maybe there is too much grease in them?? But I'm not sure if that logic makes sense.

I also put a film of grease on the axles, I tried to put just a lght film on them, but would too much grease on the axles add resistance? It seems that the excess grease was wiped/collected by running through the spacers.

WHAT GIVES? ANY HELPFUL IDEAS WILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED!!!

Thanks,
Todd
 

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:wstupid: take it apart sounds like something is misaligned or wrong. The only other thing I can think of is that the brakes are locked but I would find that hard to believe for both ends. Maybe a spacer swapped end to end or something but definetely take it apart and revisit things
 

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While you have the axle out, give it a clean, give it a quick wipe with some lithium grease or simmilar, check the spacers, make sure you have installed the bearings correctly, and it WILL be a tad tighter than your old bearings, they do that from new yes , but from the sounds of it not as tight as you say it is . Your trying this without the chain or with the chain ?
 

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With the wheel off. Clean off the grease on the bearings where the axle touched them. Then try to move the bearings freely with your finger. If you can't then the bearing are either not the right type or installed incorrectly (e.g. not seated properly and canted.)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advice, I'll take it apart & recheck everything. Still puzzles me because I:
Seated the new bearings flat and evenly.
The inner axle spacer seemed to sit in the wheel well, flush to the bearing's inner races and aligned.
Greased the dust shields and axles.
Put the shoulder spacer on the left side of the wheel and the flat spacer on the right for both wheels.
Torqued the axles to spec. Tightened the axle's pinch bolts on the right side first while the front was off ground and then torqued the left bolts when the bike was back on the ground, as mentioned in the manual.
Adjusted the chain with about 45 mm of slack. (No, I didn't try spinning the wheel w/o the chain.)
Brakes work fine, btw, they don't seem to be dragging.

This is all puzzling to me. While not a trained mechanic, I've removed/installed wheels before with my previous bikes and never had a problem.

URGH.

Hey BTW, putting the rear wheel on with the chain & brake caliper is rather challenging for a two-armed person. You guys got any tips/tricks for easing rear wheel install?

Thanks again,
Todd
 

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I use a piece of wire to hold it in place until I can get the rear wheel back on. Once the wheel is on I can remove the wire and the brake is good to go...
 

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Hey guys, first of all, new bearings DO NOT FEEL TIGHTER THAN OLD BEARINGS! When you have them in your hand you maybe able to feel a difference. But you would NEVER feel it when rotating the wheel. What ever you are feeling is not the bearings. Axil goes through the left fork (As sitting on the bike), then the spacer without the lip, then wheel, then spacer with lip (lip faces right right fork), then right fork (as sitting on the bike), then you put the nut on.

The only way the bearings could be pinching is if you did not seat them all the way into the wheel when you installed them.
 

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nedro said:
Hey guys, first of all, new bearings DO NOT FEEL TIGHTER THAN OLD BEARINGS! When you have them in your hand you maybe able to feel a difference. But you would NEVER feel it when rotating the wheel.
A new bearing is pre-packed with a grease thats warm on application and solidifies harder when cooled to get around the ball and cage, they will allways be tight. As the grease settles, the bearing wears and they bed in (reason why white high pressure grease will go grey then black over long time) , not to mention the rubber surface area of the sidecaps wears a tad and that also grips the outer to the inner when new aswell. Be it SKF, Nachi or even mega dollar FAG bearings in wheels, ive allways felt a difference when the old bearings still rolled on a even inner (non pitted) surface, ie not totally rooted. Its very minor , BUT still noticeable.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
SHOULDERED SPACER - RIGHT OR LEFT??

NEDRO:

Could the Haynes manual be incorrect? I belive it said to put the shouldered-spacer on the left side of the wheels, not right as you mentioned.

Does the shouldered spacer go on the left or right side of the wheels?? (This could be my dilema...)

RED RIDER:

I'll try your suggestion. Thanks.
 

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Re: SHOULDERED SPACER - RIGHT OR LEFT??

todd said:
NEDRO:

Could the Haynes manual be incorrect? I belive it said to put the shouldered-spacer on the left side of the wheels, not right as you mentioned.

Does the shouldered spacer go on the left or right side of the wheels?? (This could be my dilema...)

RED RIDER:

I'll try your suggestion. Thanks.
Check the online fiche at Ron Ayers site
 

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Re: SHOULDERED SPACER - RIGHT OR LEFT??

todd said:
Does the shouldered spacer go on the left or right side of the wheels?? (This could be my dilema...)
What could be your dilemma is which side you are calling the right, and which is the left. Right and left are determined as if you are sitting on the bike.

I don't mean to insult your intelligence; I've just seen a few people make this mistake.
 

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saf said:
A new bearing is pre-packed with a grease thats warm on application and solidifies harder when cooled to get around the ball and cage, they will allways be tight. As the grease settles, the bearing wears and they bed in (reason why white high pressure grease will go grey then black over long time) , not to mention the rubber surface area of the sidecaps wears a tad and that also grips the outer to the inner when new aswell. Be it SKF, Nachi or even mega dollar FAG bearings in wheels, ive allways felt a difference when the old bearings still rolled on a even inner (non pitted) surface, ie not totally rooted. Its very minor , BUT still noticeable.
It would never be noticable on an installed wheel.
 

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How did you install them? Hopefully you didnt hammer on the inner race because that can destroy them. Use a socket or similar tube that only presses on the outer race. Try and take the wheels off and hold it with a the axle through the bearings and have someone spin it...it should be free. At least then you will know if its the bearings that are tight, or something once you cinch it up on the bike.
 

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Pete said:
What could be your dilemma is which side you are calling the right, and which is the left. Right and left are determined as if you are sitting on the bike.

I don't mean to insult your intelligence; I've just seen a few people make this mistake.
THATS WAHT I"M SAYIN' !!!


I am a pretty good mechanic...and I made the same mistake...
 
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