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Hello All,


Bike is a 2006 'blade with ~ 17000 miles. Per the title, looking for some input with this. I've been riding with the 'rattle' for several hundred miles now, and have finally decided to address it. I've got all the fairings off and listened with my ear beside the housing when starting up and revving. The rattle is definitely coming from there.

I saw a video somewhere, probably youtube, with a guy who purchased a small screwdriver set from Home Depot and used it to manually 'reset' the tensioner. I've got the same tool, and have tried this with no success. I'm having a difficult time in releasing the tensioner. It is quite hard to twist that thing. Is there a point in which if it is so hard to twist, that indicates it is faulty and should just be replaced?

I've seen many threads on various forums with folks swapping out to a manual unit, but as I understand, you need to fully extend the tensioner out in order to remove it. If I'm unable to twist that thing out, what is the next step? Is there a way to remove and replace it without having to pull the tensioner all the way out?

On a side note - has anyone had any luck in fabricating an actual tool for this? Something akin to a flat-head with a wingnut attached to one end so it's easier to twist it out? The tool recommended by Honda is pricey as $%^&. Thanks for reading,

Shaun
 

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Hello All,


Bike is a 2006 'blade with ~ 17000 miles. Per the title, looking for some input with this. I've been riding with the 'rattle' for several hundred miles now, and have finally decided to address it. I've got all the fairings off and listened with my ear beside the housing when starting up and revving. The rattle is definitely coming from there.

I saw a video somewhere, probably youtube, with a guy who purchased a small screwdriver set from Home Depot and used it to manually 'reset' the tensioner. I've got the same tool, and have tried this with no success. I'm having a difficult time in releasing the tensioner. It is quite hard to twist that thing. Is there a point in which if it is so hard to twist, that indicates it is faulty and should just be replaced?

I've seen many threads on various forums with folks swapping out to a manual unit, but as I understand, you need to fully extend the tensioner out in order to remove it. If I'm unable to twist that thing out, what is the next step? Is there a way to remove and replace it without having to pull the tensioner all the way out?

On a side note - has anyone had any luck in fabricating an actual tool for this? Something akin to a flat-head with a wingnut attached to one end so it's easier to twist it out? The tool recommended by Honda is pricey as $%^&. Thanks for reading,

Shaun
Hey Shaun, I'm pretty sure if you buy a new OEM tensioner, the tool comes with it.

I have one.

That spring in there is insanely strong. To try and turn it with a micro screwdriver will be, very, very difficult. Even with the tool it springs back in and just about takes the tips of your fingers off.

Mine is from my archaic 900RR, and I would be interested to see if your 2006 is different.
106984
106985
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Shaun, I'm pretty sure if you buy a new OEM tensioner, the tool comes with it.

I have one.

That spring in there is insanely strong. To try and turn it with a micro screwdriver will be, very, very difficult. Even with the tool it springs back in and just about takes the tips of your fingers off.

Mine is from my archaic 900RR, and I would be interested to see if your 2006 is different.
View attachment 106984 View attachment 106985
Thank you for the reply! I didnt' realize the new one might come with the tool, so that's good info if I decide to go that route. OEM is likely what I'll do if need-be.

After my initial post, I hopped on Ebay and Amazon looking for options, and I found these:


I'm confident the flat-heads will fit in there, as these are about 3" long, so that shouldnt be an issue with the limited working space. I've got a 1/4" ratchet wrench that I can use on the butt end and see how that works.

If all goes well I'll update this thread here for anyone else who might be interested. And I'll be sure to be careful with the spring tension. Thanks for that tip...have not heard about it anyone else before ;-)

Shaun
 

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Keep this in mind as well, the whole reason for the special tool is to release the tension of the spring, then by keeping it "Locked in place" while you remove the tensioner, so it doesn't "fly" at you when you remove the bolts ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looks like I may need to just replace it after all.

Once I received those little screwdriver bits, I went out to try and 'reset' the tensioner. Still couldnt get it to turn. So I started the bike up, let it run for a few seconds, and back off again.

Now, that tensioner screws out really easy. With the 1/4" bit end, it's super easy to twist the bit with my fingers, release it and let it pop back into place. I did this multiple times, inserting the bit, turning it clockwise until it stops, then letting it snap back. It still rattles like hell when I start it up. And it's not just on deceleration. It rattles constantly, as long as the bike is on.

I'm guessing this means it just time to replace it.

Is removing the old tensioner as easy as withdrawing the 'plunger', then removing the two bolts holding it in place? My Clymer manual says to remove the valve covers and everything, making sure to confirm TDC, etc. Hoping it's not nearly as involved as this. Going to go with OEM. Thanks again,

Shaun

* EDIT * To add: Is it okay to continue riding in this condition, or should I stay off the bike until I get the new part installed?
 
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