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Discussion Starter #1
I plan on replacing the CCT with another OEM piece(I don't want to worry about a manual CCT loosening up on me)- There are two part #'s online, one ending in 000 and one ending in 751. I've heard there is a slightly improved version which is probably why there are two part #'s- I'm guessing it's the 751 but just wanted to make sure. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I called Ron Ayer's and they claim it's the 000 part. But I'm not sure if I believe that...
 

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When I've ordered parts from Service Honda, they've told me that as they update/improve parts they assign new part numbers (typically the last three numbers) to represent a design change. The only option you will have is to buy the latest and greatest part Honda provides. So if you cannot find one of the parts using the old part number it will cross reference with the new (replacement) part number.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I ended up ordering the "000" because I want it soon and couldn't wait- but what you said makes sense. Thanks for the help guys!
 

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Does the cct really need to be replaced? I have never heard of an enjine failure fue to a faulty cct. I think mine is shot and am starting to get the " must have a perfect bike" syndrom.

any thoughts?
 

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thanks. I wanted to do the manual one, but am not sure excactly how much to adjust the bloody thing. guess i think i'm oing to get an oem one and hope for the best

thanks again
 

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Adjusting really isn't all that bad. After the install you leave the cam adjuster just a little loose. Fire the bike and tighted everything down intil the rattle stops. Then just back off about a half turn.

If I remember correctly that's exactly how it's done. I'd have to do it again to be 100% sure. Maybe someone will back me up.
 

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Custom900 said:
Adjusting really isn't all that bad. After the install you leave the cam adjuster just a little loose. Fire the bike and tighted everything down intil the rattle stops. Then just back off about a half turn.

If I remember correctly that's exactly how it's done. I'd have to do it again to be 100% sure. Maybe someone will back me up.
Different bikes, different methods (according to APE). I've seen it the way you said, but I believe with the 929 they tell you to measure chain deflection between the cam sprockets. I ended up taking mine out due to excessive wear on the cam chain guides. Must of had it too tight.
 

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ugg well after many tries i have the APE cct in. I had to remove it once due to locktight siezing the nut down. hot motor + locktight = bad! I am becoming very paranoid about the bloody thing. any noise is starting to sound like i have it too tight. The motor naturaly has a whine, but i have heard that it kinda sounds like a turbo when the manual is overtightened. I think i may be to tight. by a turn. does the adjustment have to be that close to the rattle? like 1/2 to 1/4 turn.

This thing has been driving me more nuts than the auto unit! wheh i do my track day i'll hope fully get some insight from some of the .org'ers there.
 

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Repeater said:
ugg well after many tries i have the APE cct in. I had to remove it once due to locktight siezing the nut down. hot motor + locktight = bad! I am becoming very paranoid about the bloody thing. any noise is starting to sound like i have it too tight. The motor naturaly has a whine, but i have heard that it kinda sounds like a turbo when the manual is overtightened. I think i may be to tight. by a turn. does the adjustment have to be that close to the rattle? like 1/2 to 1/4 turn.

This thing has been driving me more nuts than the auto unit! wheh i do my track day i'll hope fully get some insight from some of the .org'ers there.
Exactly what I was going through with mine. I thought I had it adjusted correctly (per the APE instructions) only to find on my last tear down that I had ruined the cam chain guides due to the tensioner being too tight. I'm back to stock. Even if I have to replace it frequently, it's worth it to me.
 

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IS this common for the ape unit to mess . up the expensive bits? wonder if there should be a poll. I finally think i found a happy medium though the bike normally whines. i just was't used to it with out the body work. I'm going to leave it in for now, but it will be in the back of my mind. I wonder whats to tight, and if it actually needs a variable tension through the REV range?
 

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Repeater said:
IS this common for the ape unit to mess . up the expensive bits? wonder if there should be a poll. I finally think i found a happy medium though the bike normally whines. i just was't used to it with out the body work. I'm going to leave it in for now, but it will be in the back of my mind. I wonder whats to tight, and if it actually needs a variable tension through the REV range?
If not set correctly, from experience, yes it can damage parts. If adjusted/set correctly, from what I hear it is much more reliable than the stocker. I've lucked out and never had a catastrophic event from my stocker, so I just keep using that instead of the APE.
 
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