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Discussion Starter #1
go out this morning to start the beast and everything acting normal but wont start, like i have no spark. put it on the battery tender to take the battery out of the equation. come home and same issue.

finally get it to start by giving it half throttle which have never had to do. she has always started by simply hitting the starter button/ no gas, perfect.

the second issue is that after starting she doesn't want to hold idle for around 10-20 seconds where i have to control with the throttle, and then magically is back to normal, idle at 1,200 rpm and runs completely normal.

have factory service manual and have checked what i thought i should. perplexed at this point.....:idunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
update next day.

started for a second, then had to do same thing i had described before. knowing what the problem was helped in the sense that i didn't need as much throttle to keep it running, and then around 10 seconds later operation as normal. going to do the round trip to work and see if it keeps getting better.

one thing i forgot to say in the last post was that after riding around 10 spirited minutes, stopped for gas to top off and it acted the same way even at normal operating temp.

new iridiums, new air filter, always good gas, and 17K.
 

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Not sure if blades have them, I but I know on FI cars there's a thing called a cold start injector, might want to check to see if it's operating.
 

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Was the 16k valve check recently done? Maybe something not put back right?

You might want to look into starter valve sync. I don't know why it would be so far out as to not start, though :huh:
 

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update next day.

started for a second, then had to do same thing i had described before. knowing what the problem was helped in the sense that i didn't need as much throttle to keep it running, and then around 10 seconds later operation as normal. going to do the round trip to work and see if it keeps getting better.

one thing i forgot to say in the last post was that after riding around 10 spirited minutes, stopped for gas to top off and it acted the same way even at normal operating temp.

new iridiums, new air filter, always good gas, and 17K.
Did you recently service the bike yourself? If so I 'm sure you forgot plug in one of the sensors did the same thing and your descripstion is exactly what I had encountered with my bike had to remove the tank again and found the MAP sensor unplugged plugged back in and good as new.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
yes, i did service it myself, but that was 6 months and 5,000 miles ago. also, had airbox and everything off again last night just for that reason alone.

rode her to work today, and the problem actually seems to be getting better. starts easily with a little throttle, then 10 seconds later idles like it always has. even after driving it 10 minutes to normal operating temp and shutting it off, same thing. driveability is exactly the same. put some techron in just to take a cloged injector or fuel issue out of the equation. very odd:huh: :huh:

never strored btw. daily driver, as in no car. thank god for so-cal weather.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
was reading in the service manual not to:

Do not snap the throttle valve from full open to full closed after the throttle cable has been removed.​
It may cause incorrect

idle operation.

This may have happened, but i see no remedy listed???
 

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Discussion Starter #9
little help..:idunno: someone has to know how to remedy this.

at this point i firmly believe i threw the idle out of adjustment when working on the throttle grip. it is the only thing that makes any sense. bike seems to run fine after i hold the throttle for about 5-10 seconds. it seems a little worse after it warms up a bit, but will hold idle if i manually hold the throttle for a bit. the only other symptom is a bit more backfire when throttle closed in gear, which has always been there with full exhaust and pcIII, just seems a bit more pronounced.

this is drivin me nuts. have always been able to fix everything if i could diagnose the problem, and would hate more someone working on my bike than paying for it..:huh:
 

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Sounds like a fuel problem, like super rich. How is the idle adjustment screw set? That runs your idle fuel enrichment circuit.
 

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I know a guy that happened to but his bike wasn't FI and he would leave his fuel petcock in the on posistion causing his fuel bowls to fill, I don't think this is the same problem but I would pull everything apart that you did and recheck it all.....don't want to get stranded on the road and all....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
never changed fuel filter, but doubt thats it, only in the way its acting...only 17k and being as anal as i am have only ran super from the same station with high turnover.
 

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Fuel injection systems use a coolant temp sensor most of the time, if your's has gone bad it may be reading a cold temperature situation and firing the bike up with a rich mixture until it's running for a second and that phase of the ignition controls gets handed off to other systems. Get the manual and start checking sensors is the only advice I can offer
 

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Discussion Starter #15
o.k...finally figured it out.:) :) :) first off, its a California bike, full exhaust, pcIII, so no o2 sensor. have always had the error code of no o2 sensor pre heater, just didn't bother to get the o2 sim. big mistake, anyone out there, get this (from powercommander)because i couldn't get the error code i was needing to narrow the issue down.

turns out it was the vacume line for the MAP sensor, and had come off. couldn't see it because the frame was obstucting it from being seen. after remapping the pcIII, and countless other sensor testings (except the MAP sensor), it turns out to be something that simple.

moral of the story, listen to the advise you get, because someone on this site has probably had the same problem.
thanks for the help, because i was sick of dealing with the idle issue...:D
 
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