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Well, I finally drilled out the bolts. Tubes are apart right now. However, I noticed one of them that I took apart first has a dent in the fork tube. I don't know if this is because I accidentally had it slip and hit the concrete (very plausible...) but that's very upsetting. I tried to be careful but it just slipped... :( Oily stuff.

all this work and now the damn tube is has a minor dent in it. UGH! What do you think I should do? (Ignore it? Buy a new tube? Give up on everything?)

EDIT: It's at the top of the tube. So, it won't leak oil from here. It's just a unsightly thing and less structurally sound but whatever... :(
Me personally, I wouldn't have a problem using it with that dent as long as it wasn't going to leak oil. I've seen a mate use one with a much bigger crease after he got his straightened after a prang. It also looks high enough to hide in or near the triple clamp maybe? Sometimes you can turn the inner to hide it facing back on an angle towards the radiator.
Also, a little helpful hint for when you reassemble the forks. Wrap the sharp bits with glad wrap smeared with oil when you insert the inner through the seal so you don't damage it. I learnt the hard way.
 

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Discussion Starter #182 (Edited)
Bought an adjustable fork seal driver kit. It helped but it was a PITA still. I think this is because the seals I got from All Balls are not truly 100% made for this bike or something. The fork dust seal won't even fit the first fork tube I'm doing. I had to install the old one because it just wouldn't go down all the way. I'd push super hard on one end and then it'd pop out the other side. The old one fit in with relatively little resistance.

It also wrecked two of my fingers. Ended up pinching some of my skin with the fork driver and it just hurts a lot. Didn't externally bleed, instead it's internal bleeding. Great...
 

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Bought an adjustable fork seal driver kit. It helped but it was a PITA still. I think this is because the seals I got from All Balls are not truly 100% made for this bike or something. The fork dust seal won't even fit the first fork tube I'm doing. I had to install the old one because it just wouldn't go down all the way. I'd push super hard on one end and then it'd pop out the other side. The old one fit in with relatively little resistance.

It also wrecked two of my fingers. Ended up pinching some of my skin with the fork driver and it just hurts a lot. Didn't externally bleed, instead it's internal bleeding. Great...
All balls was an error, but live and learn. I don't have familiarity with them (although I have used their bearings with no problem), but any oil seal, and especially fork seal should be OEM, regardless of cost savings. Just think if you have to do them again next week because of a leak?
 

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Discussion Starter #186 (Edited)
*Finally* installed the other forks into the main bike. Swapped the main bike forks into the parts bike. Holy crap, those forks were rusted way beyond belief. I mean, *really* rusted. Pitted out and all. Maybe the new forks have some slight dents in them but they're much better than the others.

The one thing I did notice is that the rusted forks were definitely rebuilt somewhat recently. The dust seal looked relatively new compared to the other bikes. Just unfortunate that they were still rusted to infinity and beyond.

I'll eventually go ride the bike and get the suspension setup at a local shop. (I happen to live a mile away from a lot of the bay area's premier motorcycle tuning and repair shops)

EDIT: I'm in such a deep hole here with this bike. I've spent so much money on tools alone! I spent something like $100 just for a really big set of drill bits from HF. (I got the nice big indexing kit... It did help)
 

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Discussion Starter #187
I went on a little ride yesterday. There's two things that will have to be addressed before I seriously ride this thing.

One: It needs tank grips. It **needs** them.
Two: It needs a different seat/seat-cover. The material on this seat is ultra slippery. It's impossible to stay near the tank on the bike when rolling on the throttle. If I was wearing some extra grippy leathers then maybe I could or if I just sprayed some spray on glue on my ass then sure. But, I'd like to be able to ride this with a variety of gear. (Including my aerostich which is noticeably more slippery on the bum)

So, I'm going to look into fabric materials online. I need to replace my other bike's seat cover as well. So, I don't mind doing some sewing and little crafts to get a fully new seat. I just need to find good material online and that seems to be difficult.
 

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I went on a little ride yesterday. There's two things that will have to be addressed before I seriously ride this thing.

One: It needs tank grips. It **needs** them.
Two: It needs a different seat/seat-cover. The material on this seat is ultra slippery. It's impossible to stay near the tank on the bike when rolling on the throttle. If I was wearing some extra grippy leathers then maybe I could or if I just sprayed some spray on glue on my ass then sure. But, I'd like to be able to ride this with a variety of gear. (Including my aerostich which is noticeably more slippery on the bum)

So, I'm going to look into fabric materials online. I need to replace my other bike's seat cover as well. So, I don't mind doing some sewing and little crafts to get a fully new seat. I just need to find good material online and that seems to be difficult.
First lesson you learn when riding an old Blade is always wear leathers especially pants. I’ve ridden in Kevlar jeans and textiles and you slide all over the place, usually bashing you nadgers when braking :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #190
Been riding it for a while. Haven't done much to it. Bought a set of rubber plugs online to cap a lot of vacuum hose areas. I also did a carb-sync with the right tool. They were *way* out of line.

However, after I did that... it started running lean. (a lot of cracks and burbles on deacceleration)

Tried to adjust the pilot screws today but they're all stripping out without any effort. They're really locked in place *and* the heads are incredibly soft (if not stripped already from previous owner, hard to tell). So, that's really great. I'll have to buy a new set of pilot screws, take off the carbs, and drill the old ones out. >_<

Very frustrating. 2 steps forward, 10,000 steps back.
 

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Been riding it for a while. Haven't done much to it. Bought a set of rubber plugs online to cap a lot of vacuum hose areas. I also did a carb-sync with the right tool. They were *way* out of line.

However, after I did that... it started running lean. (a lot of cracks and burbles on deacceleration)

Tried to adjust the pilot screws today but they're all stripping out without any effort. They're really locked in place *and* the heads are incredibly soft (if not stripped already from previous owner, hard to tell). So, that's really great. I'll have to buy a new set of pilot screws, take off the carbs, and drill the old ones out. >_<

Very frustrating. 2 steps forward, 10,000 steps back.
Minor issue, relative to what you've already done :wink
 

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Discussion Starter #193
Well, over the past week or so I've done some adjusting. Pilot screws seem to do nothing except either cause the bike to not start almost at all (and/or die upon opening the throttle) when backed out 2.75-3-ish turns. (Hard to really get a good feel for what's consistent across them all since it's really difficult to adjust these)

I ended up filing down one of the pilot screw heads so that I could grip it with a flat head or with a Double D pilot adjustment end. (The D got so stripped that it was pointless - converted it to double D)

The others I am adjusting using a Double D now too because a single D just doesn't work. Anyway, it's not great. Spent a few hours on this already and it just doesn't seem to fix the burbling on decel. The bike isn't idling perfect either (sounds a bit rough - not super smooth but maybe a 25+ year old bike w/ carbs never will)

At this point, about to give up. I thought unscrewing the pilot screws would do some wonders - nope. Just kills the bike very quickly. Screwing it in does help here and there but then it needs a lot of choke to run (kinda obviously). Idk... And since there are 4 carbs, it's really hard to adjust them all perfectly while they're seated with these tools. (Since sometimes the socket slips on the head)

Anyway, kinda... burned out on it. Not sure how to fix it right now. Maybe it's just how it will be.
 

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Well, over the past week or so I've done some adjusting. Pilot screws seem to do nothing except either cause the bike to not start almost at all (and/or die upon opening the throttle) when backed out 2.75-3-ish turns. (Hard to really get a good feel for what's consistent across them all since it's really difficult to adjust these)

I ended up filing down one of the pilot screw heads so that I could grip it with a flat head or with a Double D pilot adjustment end. (The D got so stripped that it was pointless - converted it to double D)

The others I am adjusting using a Double D now too because a single D just doesn't work. Anyway, it's not great. Spent a few hours on this already and it just doesn't seem to fix the burbling on decel. The bike isn't idling perfect either (sounds a bit rough - not super smooth but maybe a 25+ year old bike w/ carbs never will)

At this point, about to give up. I thought unscrewing the pilot screws would do some wonders - nope. Just kills the bike very quickly. Screwing it in does help here and there but then it needs a lot of choke to run (kinda obviously). Idk... And since there are 4 carbs, it's really hard to adjust them all perfectly while they're seated with these tools. (Since sometimes the socket slips on the head)

Anyway, kinda... burned out on it. Not sure how to fix it right now. Maybe it's just how it will be.
It is worth persevering, a well set up 893 should idle smoothly and there should not be any hesitation or flat spots, Carbs are not my forte, that’s something I tend to hand over to an expert, but my advice is to run as close to stock as possible, standard exhaust, air filter and jetting and it should run like a sewing machine.

Also once set up properly they need very little or no choke.
 

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It is worth persevering, a well set up 893 should idle smoothly and there should not be any hesitation or flat spots, Carbs are not my forte, that’s something I tend to hand over to an expert, but my advice is to run as close to stock as possible, standard exhaust, air filter and jetting and it should run like a sewing machine.

Also once set up properly they need very little or no choke.
Agreed here, the carbs are old, and probably need a through going through again. I can't remember if you had them off earlier, but a proper tear down and splitting and sync are probably in order.

Refresh my memory; what have you done to the carbs already? Do you have a K&N or similar filter? And does it have a full exhaust system?

Did we verify it had a jet kit in it? (adjustable needles, larger mains and larger slow jets). If the jets are stock with the aforementioned mods, you probably need a 40 Slow Jet, and at least 118 Mains, with the needle clip in the 3rd or 4th position from the top. The fuel screw adjustment is actually a pretty involved adjustment specific to each cylinder. It's called an idle drop test, where you adjust each screw to reach the a maximum rpm read on a tachometer that can show a 50 RPM change. You set the screw to give you the highest RPM and then move on to the next cylinder, until the RPMS are as maxed as they can get, then adjust the idle adjustment down to about 1100. It's a huge PITAS without proper equipment, and that why jet kits will give you an "initial setting" of 2.5 turns out from lightly seated.

Your carbs will need to come out again, it's just the way it is with these bikes, not that that's a bad thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #196
I'll probably buy some fuel adjustment screws. The current screws are destroyed. Adjusting them is *very* difficult (near impossible?).

If I can get something like a set of 4 of these for cheap, that'd be amazing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Easy-Adjust-Fuel-Mixture-Screw-Motorcycle-ATV-Fcr-Carb-Air-Carburetor-For-Honda/332371903450?fits=Model:CBR900RR&epid=2233031481&hash=item4d62e8c3da:g:lzsAAOSwTUVZsOeo

Throttle broke recently in some weird way. Not sure what happened. Can turn towards myself and it'll retract. (to accelerate) But then it can freely spin about 1/4-1/2 turn away from me after the 0-position. So... not good. Not end of world but pretty annoying.

Choke and choke cable are also acting up. Almost impossible to get the choke going.

After I get the bike nearly fully perfect - I think I'm going to sell it. I'm about to sell my other motorcycle. Once that's sold, I can see myself selling this one too. I'll very likely pull some of the aftermarket parts off and sell them here (or elsewhere) since they're pretty expensive and OEM will be cheaper. (And more desired by the general audience)

I'm just ready for something that's a bit lower maintenance right now. I enjoy the motorcycle but after this journey and doing it all on the street or my patio - I can't take it much longer. With travel, my SO, my stressful job, and many other things taking up my time... I can't realistically do this stuff so often w/o a garage.
 

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I'll probably buy some fuel adjustment screws. The current screws are destroyed. Adjusting them is *very* difficult (near impossible?).

If I can get something like a set of 4 of these for cheap, that'd be amazing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Easy-Adjust-Fuel-Mixture-Screw-Motorcycle-ATV-Fcr-Carb-Air-Carburetor-For-Honda/332371903450?fits=Model:CBR900RR&epid=2233031481&hash=item4d62e8c3da:g:lzsAAOSwTUVZsOeo

Throttle broke recently in some weird way. Not sure what happened. Can turn towards myself and it'll retract. (to accelerate) But then it can freely spin about 1/4-1/2 turn away from me after the 0-position. So... not good. Not end of world but pretty annoying.

Choke and choke cable are also acting up. Almost impossible to get the choke going.

After I get the bike nearly fully perfect - I think I'm going to sell it. I'm about to sell my other motorcycle. Once that's sold, I can see myself selling this one too. I'll very likely pull some of the aftermarket parts off and sell them here (or elsewhere) since they're pretty expensive and OEM will be cheaper. (And more desired by the general audience)

I'm just ready for something that's a bit lower maintenance right now. I enjoy the motorcycle but after this journey and doing it all on the street or my patio - I can't take it much longer. With travel, my SO, my stressful job, and many other things taking up my time... I can't realistically do this stuff so often w/o a garage.
I will take first pick of the rearsets on the 900 if you decide to sell.:nerd
 

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Discussion Starter #198
Been riding the bike for commuting. Decided to rail in first gear just for the sake of it while on an onramp and then decelerate at the meter. Smack into redline (a bit aggressively, didn't intend to) and I experience what feels abnormal for the first time: it felt like something slipped aggressively that wasn't supposed to. Like the chain skipped. And then, after that, the bike starts sounding funny after 4-5k rpm. And not like ha-ha funny but like oh-no-this-is-not-a-happy-sound funny. Weird metal ticking/clacking type of sound. It just gets louder and more aggressive as I rise the rpm. I didn't go past 4-5k rpm much after that. I could cruise on the freeway or decelerate from 6k+ (downshifting) and there'd be no sound but when I apply throttle it just clacks weird.

Maybe I'll add a video with some sound. I suspect maybe engine knocking and a spark plug gave up? But it sounds pretty normal below 4-5k.
 

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Been riding the bike for commuting. Decided to rail in first gear just for the sake of it while on an onramp and then decelerate at the meter. Smack into redline (a bit aggressively, didn't intend to) and I experience what feels abnormal for the first time: it felt like something slipped aggressively that wasn't supposed to. Like the chain skipped. And then, after that, the bike starts sounding funny after 4-5k rpm. And not like ha-ha funny but like oh-no-this-is-not-a-happy-sound funny. Weird metal ticking/clacking type of sound. It just gets louder and more aggressive as I rise the rpm. I didn't go past 4-5k rpm much after that. I could cruise on the freeway or decelerate from 6k+ (downshifting) and there'd be no sound but when I apply throttle it just clacks weird.

Maybe I'll add a video with some sound. I suspect maybe engine knocking and a spark plug gave up? But it sounds pretty normal below 4-5k.
A video would be great with sound. I would say if it’s more pronounced at the front right side of the engine it would be the cam chain tensioner (CCT). They fail over time. Check your drive chain and sprockets for wear and signs of worn teeth etc. depending on the state of the header, it could also be an exhaust leak. Get the camera phone going and get some good video with the middle and lower fairings off.

Worst case scenario would be that you spun a crank or rod bearing. Let’s hopefully not go there.
 

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Discussion Starter #200
Added a couple sound clips. It's the tack-tack-tack-tack sound that kind of sounds like clacking two bits of metal together. (Sounds similar to lifter tick/tap)

In the second clip, I rev the bike a bit higher (maybe 10k) and then decel and it just shakes and makes a weird turbo-whistle sounding noise. That was a slightly new noise/experience.
 

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