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Of course the new-used will be the more expensive route, I added that as a worst case scenario.

I’ve never used a remover, cleaner, sealer. So I can’t comment on that, but I did get a used 96 tank last year not because of a rusty one, but a significant damaged one. I had no choice. I think I paid $175, and it was a bad silver repaint, with poor cleared over, crooked decals.

But they are out there, but buy wisely. Anything over $200 is not a deal.

I stripped mine, with this stuff from HomeDepot. It was biodegradable and supposedly better than “harsher” chemicals. It worked well, needing a few applications, but worked.

The problem was what I found underneath it. Both sides had bondo, and it was in rough shape. So I re-did the bondo’d areas a little better (first time working with body filler ever), and did a quick prime. It’s a metallic blue now on my track bike, but it holds fuel without leaking, so it’s good to go.


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Discussion Starter #22
Got the bike today. Removed the fuel tank and emptied it as best as I could. But, with no key... it's kind of hard to do anything. Was expecting some kind of freak sludge to rush out but it was clear gas. Smelled like normal gas. Not sure how I am going to dispose of this stuff.

Any suggestions for how to open the fuel tank without a key? I can jerryrig up some hacky gas thing but I need to get this bike started.

The lithium battery read 0v exactly when I tried to read the DC voltage difference between the terminals... Never seen a battery /that/ dead before. Before I go buy a new battery, how do I get the fuel tank open and how do I get the ignition going?
 

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You could try and take the whole gas cap off by removing the three screw's that hold it on. That way you will be able to see inside the tank.




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Discussion Starter #24
You could try and take the whole gas cap off by removing the three screw's that hold it on. That way you will be able to see inside the tank.




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Don't think that's possible. There's about 6-8 bolts that hold it on and because of the lock mechanism, it holds onto the plate. I tried a couple not-so-great methods for removing already. At this point, I'm about to get the drill out.
 

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Yes, no way to get it off with out ruining both without the key.

Try this. Pull the ignition out of the triple tree. Check the cylinder for a 3 digit code. It should be stamped into a steel portion of the cylinder. That’s the key code. Go to your Honda dealer and give them the code. They should have a tool to cut you a new key that will then fit everything.

The code is generally a letter with 2 numbers. I.E. D26
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Yes, no way to get it off with out ruining both without the key.

Try this. Pull the ignition out of the triple tree. Check the cylinder for a 3 digit code. It should be stamped into a steel portion of the cylinder. That’s the key code. Go to your Honda dealer and give them the code. They should have a tool to cut you a new key that will then fit everything.

The code is generally a letter with 2 numbers. I.E. D26
Well, I'm far past that stage. Already took a drill to it. Isn't working... frustrating. Have to drill more, I guess. Honda (auto) dealers around here don't offer new keys for motorcycles. Guy told me to call a honda motorcycle dealer and see if they can order me one... but I'm slightly skeptical. Most places here sell a bunch of bikes and are not really in the business of selling parts.
 

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I should have clarified. Yes, you have to go to a Honda Morotcyxle dealer. The auto dealers are just mainly component changers.

The cycle shop should have the means to buy the key blanks and make it happen. That’s the only way to get a key to fit what you have.

Or just ruin everything and get a Chinese replacement of everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I should have clarified. Yes, you have to go to a Honda Morotcyxle dealer. The auto dealers are just mainly component changers.

The cycle shop should have the means to buy the key blanks and make it happen. That’s the only way to get a key to fit what you have.

Or just ruin everything and get a Chinese replacement of everything.
I decided the ruin everything and a replacement method. It's only $29 for replacement parts anyway. I don't think the key would be any less. Probably more.

It's amazing how difficult this is being.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Got it finally. Took a pretty large drill bit to get it and at an angle to finally get it to release.

A lot of metal shavings got inside, unfortunate. However, the inside looks absolutely perfect. I didn't see a single bit of rust and I did check as many angles as I could and put my gopro in to get a better angle. I should use a mirror on a stick to really check but I'm convinced it's fine... In some ways, I'm not surprised. The previous owner clearly liked this bike for track daying and what not. I'd guess they might have done a treatment to the inside. It's 100% grey inside, which is unusual for a coating IMO. Most coatings seem to be some kind of bright color to make it clear that you've applied a coating.

But, hey, I'm not complaining. Only complaint I have is that I can't drain the thing completely because there are some things inside the tank that won't let stuff out. There's some orange filter thing that is stuck inside for the main fuel outlet. I'd like to remove it and put a new one in (the current one is slightly damaged from what I can tell). Not sure if that's a replaceable part or not but it's definitely stopping stuff from draining from what I gather.

You don't buy a $200 battery for a POS bike. ;)
 

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I decided the ruin everything and a replacement method. It's only $29 for replacement parts anyway. I don't think the key would be any less. Probably more.

It's amazing how difficult this is being.
I know what you mean, I ended up having to do the same for that tank I showed you earlier. The cap was still on it, so I drilled it and it still didn’t come off. I ended up prying the thing out and bent the lip that the rubber part of the cap seals on. I “hammered” on it and got it back to about the position it was in. I got a Chinese non locking cap for the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Suggestions on a battery? Am I going to have to get a battery charger as well because it seems the lead batteries don't come charged...
 

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The long orange thing is the fuel strainer. It’s supposed to be attached to the petcock, but ya very common for them to get stuck in the tank. Get a new one, and ruin that one too to get it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
The long orange thing is the fuel strainer. It’s supposed to be attached to the petcock, but ya very common for them to get stuck in the tank. Get a new one, and ruin that one too to get it out.
Suggestions on where to get these parts? https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/c/honda_motorcycle/parts is what I've been looking at but I don't know if maybe there's a better option.

Honda parts house doesn't have the filter in stock. :(

Also, how the heck would you get it out? Barely any of it is exposed for me. It'll tear apart before it'll come out.
 

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Suggestions on where to get these parts? https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/c/honda_motorcycle/parts is what I've been looking at but I don't know if maybe there's a better option.

Honda parts house doesn't have the filter in stock. :(

Also, how the heck would you get it out? Barely any of it is exposed for me. It'll tear apart before it'll come out.
I use Partzilla.com for all my OEM stuff, but it is possible it’s not available anymore. I think some guys here have had success with the Chinese version of the entire fuel valve, which you might have to buy in order to get it.

It is a pain, the only way to get it out is to implode it and ruin it. It’s really flimsy. I’ve ruined the ones I had to get out no matter how hard I tried not to.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I use Partzilla.com for all my OEM stuff, but it is possible it’s not available anymore. I think some guys here have had success with the Chinese version of the entire fuel valve, which you might have to buy in order to get it.

It is a pain, the only way to get it out is to implode it and ruin it. It’s really flimsy. I’ve ruined the ones I had to get out no matter how hard I tried not to.
The assembly looks to be about $55. Not exactly cheap beans all for one small plastic part... Should I even bother?
 

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Tough call. The original one will probably leak when you put fuel through it, so it could come in handy, but you might get away with just putting the original one back in.

If it were mine though, I would have a new set up. As I did for both of mine. But like I said before, im crazy and don’t always make the “cheapest” decisions lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Tough call. The original one will probably leak when you put fuel through it, so it could come in handy, but you might get away with just putting the original one back in.

If it were mine though, I would have a new set up. As I did for both of mine. But like I said before, im crazy and don’t always make the “cheapest” decisions lol.
I don't think it was leaking when I was moving it around but maybe it was too low on fuel for me to tell. There was quite a bit that came out though.

Maybe I'll see if it starts leaking with the old one and if it does then I'll get a new one.

For now, I haven't gotten the thing to start yet (no battery). So, I'll wait around.
 
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