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They are *stuck*. I've tried heat gun, blow torch (yes), razor, dead blow hammer on top of carbs (black cap) to dislodge it/shock it free, silicone lube, and pulling like it's Excalibur. Nothing.

No more progress than before. At this point, I'm about to take the blow torch to it and *really* set it on fire. Just melt the whole stuff off. It's obnoxious. These will have to be replaced at this point. Just trying to minimize the damage to other parts. I've accidentally broken some plastic pieces because they got in the way while trying to pull these off and they just snapped apart.

I've spent like 2-3 hours trying to get these off.

I'd just cut all the metal ties and strip the rubber down but I have so little clearance for such maneuvers that I can't. Barely can get the blow torch under the carbs to heat the rubber up. Heat gun doesn't work well enough. (too slow and not concentrated)
:eek::eek:
 

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Never, have I had that much difficulty. They’ve always come off, even after a few sweaty hours.

I’m sorry they’re fighting you.

Did you try to pry them off with a tool?
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
Got them off finally. Blow torch. Used a natural gas torch (Mappro would've probably been too much). Just kept going over all four carbs rubber gasket from the bottom with the torch, pressing down with my body weight on the top of the carbs to slowly peel them away from the engine... Took a few minutes of fire+whatever. Eventually the rubber and everything stopped catching fire and just gave in to my ways.

slowly got it... but the things are super hot to the touch. Glad I have mechanic gloves, otherwise my hands would've gotten burned to a crisp.

Whew. But now I have gas going everywhere on a very hot surface. D:

I'll take them apart soon enough and figure out what I need to order.

Pics after: https://imgur.com/a/RL7PW

There was nothing I could pry them off with. There's no real leverage point I could use without potentially damaging the carbs themselves or more bits of them or the frame or what not.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Started taking the carbs apart.

Really should have a larger workspace for this... Heh. And have a giant table full of numbers so I don't get anything messed up. but I don't. I recorded myself with a gopro for a bit of it though.

Got one carb apart and the float bowl is okay. Nothing drastic. The section for the slide did have some muck in it. Black goop essentially. I cleaned that out pretty quickly. It also didn't have a uniform circular shape. It had dimples it in every 35 degrees or so making it look a bit like a flower.

Not sure what's up with that.

I think I might buy a full rebuild kit at this point. I already have most of the thing apart... I may as well. Should've done this a week ago. Heh.

Any suggestions on where to buy one?
 

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Started taking the carbs apart.

Really should have a larger workspace for this... Heh. And have a giant table full of numbers so I don't get anything messed up. but I don't. I recorded myself with a gopro for a bit of it though.

Got one carb apart and the float bowl is okay. Nothing drastic. The section for the slide did have some muck in it. Black goop essentially. I cleaned that out pretty quickly. It also didn't have a uniform circular shape. It had dimples it in every 35 degrees or so making it look a bit like a flower.

Not sure what's up with that.

I think I might buy a full rebuild kit at this point. I already have most of the thing apart... I may as well. Should've done this a week ago. Heh.

Any suggestions on where to buy one?
Partzilla.com is where I get all my OEM stuff. Should still have complete kits for each carb. But there are other places too.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Partzilla.com is where I get all my OEM stuff. Should still have complete kits for each carb. But there are other places too.
They wanted like $120 for a gasket set for the four carbs. Waaaay too much IMO.

A lot of the parts they list have ridiculous prices.
 

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They wanted like $120 for a gasket set for the four carbs. Waaaay too much IMO.

A lot of the parts they list have ridiculous prices.
That’s a fair statement I suppose, but I value OEM parts and reliable shipping.

If you find something significantly cheaper that works we would be happy to know.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Bought new rubber boots from here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Carburetor-Intake-Manifold-Boots-For-Honda-CBR900RR-CBR900-1993-1999-USA/172997249088?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Should be a while until they get here.

Took apart the carbs. I will have to order two new main jet assemblies - potentially. The main jet screw is stuck on with two of the carbs. PB Blaster did nothing. Ended up stripping one of them in futile attempts. :( (Damn brass)

Cleaned the carbs outside and inside as best as I could. 3 of the 4 pilot jets were indeed clogged. (Probably why it didn't start)

I was busy just getting this done and didn't want to do pictures much. I'll try to do more pictures next time. This was a lengthy process because of how much effort I spent scrubbing and what not. Also first time doing this - so there's some self-discovery.
Pictures of after mostly: https://imgur.com/a/8oYta

I'll be buying new gaskets probably either from here Honda CBR900RR Carburettor Kits (litetek) OR from here potentially: Honda CBR900RR Parts & Accessories - Parts N More - Japanese Vintage Motorcycle Parts[category]=carb&filters[year]=1993 I'll probably buy them from the first because that has *a lot* of gaskets and I actually do need some of the ones that aren't in others. I found some of the gaskets just fell apart (on screws).

I'm not 100% sure on what to do because I am not sure if the float needles are bad or not. They all looked okay (nothing severe) and they all did work in terms of the spring action inside them... :/

Before I order: I'm thinking of putting it all back together (even though some parts are kinda broken) and then seeing if the engine will fire up. Not sure if that's worth my time or not and if I should just pay the $$$ up front and then rebuild and then put it on the bike?

The inside of the bowls wasn't particularly bad either btw. There were some black clumps of gunk here and there but nothing really noteworthy. I think the pilot jets being clogged was the big issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Bought a fuel filter. The litetek gaskets as well.

Put the carbs back together completely and reinstalled them back on the bike in a very hacky way. It didn't fire up but it did *almost* fire up - heh. I was excited when it was making some popping sounds like it was almost about to fire up. But without the throttle or choke connected I couldn't modulate it to getting going. I tried adding choke manually from the bracket and moving the throttle but it's hard to do choke+throttle+starter button with two hands, hah. And the choke doesn't stay even when I do reconnect the wire (a problem that existed before I took it all apart, choke has to be held very aggressively). I think it's probably just getting the wrong air+fuel combo right now because I tried to get it running without the filter on and a few other things. I'll probably cool off on this for now while I wait for gaskets to arrive.

I'm going to try to do a compression test soon though. Manual says 171psi is the factory number. Here's to hoping my rings aren't blown - woo...
 

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Actually I was wondering if you’d blown a ring trying to get them off....

He he

Just a little jokey joke. Nothing to see here, move along now.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Quick question about rust on the front forks: how much is too much? It looks like there is quite a bit of rust on mine but I'm not sure at what point it *really* matters. I know no rust would be preferable but that's not the world we live in.

Seems I can get some non-rusted out forks on ebay but I figure refurbing these would be a better way to go if I can.
 

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They wanted like $120 for a gasket set for the four carbs. Waaaay too much IMO.

A lot of the parts they list have ridiculous prices.
Smear this stuff on the rubber gaskets before you reassemble and they damn near last forever (got a valve cover gasket on my Honda car that has been off 10+ times or more over 120,000 miles and works great w/no leaks).

https://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Vacuum-Lubricant-5-3oz/dp/B001UHMNW0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521430127&sr=8-1&keywords=dow+corning+high+vacuum+grease
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Quick question about rust on the front forks: how much is too much? It looks like there is quite a bit of rust on mine but I'm not sure at what point it *really* matters. I know no rust would be preferable but that's not the world we live in.

Seems I can get some non-rusted out forks on ebay but I figure refurbing these would be a better way to go if I can.
Went down the rabbit hole of finding new front forks - not a great hole to go down.

Of course, next to no one sells these new. I did see that you can buy one (just one - not a pair) for something like $1000 from some specialty website. I'll take a hard pass on that.

Alternatives to buying parts is that I've read are using various high grit sand papers to sand down the rust along with maybe using aluminum foil or something unusual like that. I'll probably stick with high grit sandpaper if I go that route. They say that after you remove the rust completely that you need to fill in the spots with something like a JB Weld epoxy then sand down very thoroughly to get a perfectly smooth finish. Which makes sense because otherwise you're gonna put fork oil everywhere or rip up all your seals (or both!). It isn't a permanent fix though and suggestions say that I should also rebuild the entire fork anyway since rust likely got into the fork oil and has screwed up everything anyway. So, that's cool...

I did try to look for ebay parts more thoroughly. At best - really expensive ($500+ for well used - still need that full rebuild treatment!). At worst - okay prices but unknown quality of parts. Many examples of forks being sold were completely bent. (What is even useful from that? It's like selling shattered pistons.) I live pretty close to a reputable motorcycle suspension shop, so maybe they'd be a good resource for sourcing aftermarket parts if epoxy or ebay just ends up being a bad idea. Maybe I'll just give them a call.

After ebay, I went online looking for new forks. Found a forum post at RRZone here (https://www.rrzone.com/forums/showthread.php/9240-CBR900RR-Replacement-Rear-Shock) that suggested a few brands. I had already went seeking Ohlins. Not gonna find anything there. Wilbers though sells replacement fork tubes and I believe that's what I need. So for $240 I'd get a new set of fork tubes. That's pretty good deal considering everything else seems insane. Pay an extra $120 and they're gold. Neat but not really necessary. What is nice is that the Wilbers USA shop is near where I live too. (Bay Area) Found the suspension stuff here: https://www.wilbers-shop.de/index.php?cl=alist&cnid=879625b18c28dc941dd4e997b10d1b92&manufacturer=amu19a4f1346a0757072421f9a2d3c9c&year=1993&catname=879625b18c28dc941dd4e997b10d1b92 They say they build custom springs set to rider weight and everything. Neat... I figure I'll need new fork springs though too. But even ohlins sells that, lol.

I doubt the rear shock is any good after 25 years of what not and however many track day events that this thing has encountered. I mean, I am literally thinking that all the nitrogen leaked out of the thing by now. I don't think they're meant to be rebuilt though. So, I don't think I could even take it off and take it to a shop to get it rebuilt since there was nothing in the service manual about rebuilding it from what I saw. Depending on the shop, I might be able to get full new suspension that's adjusted completely for my body weight - or at least springs. That'd be nice! Not holding out there though... again, just want this thing running... but I am looking at the things that are of concern after I get it to that "running" stage.

It's still important to keep an eye on the future past things like it starting. Who cares if it can start but I can't move it, right?! Haha.
 

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Rule #1 : No rust on the slider area of fork tube.
Rule #2 : Rust means structural weakness; your call there!
 

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Went down the rabbit hole of finding new front forks - not a great hole to go down.

Of course, next to no one sells these new. I did see that you can buy one (just one - not a pair) for something like $1000 from some specialty website. I'll take a hard pass on that.

Alternatives to buying parts is that I've read are using various high grit sand papers to sand down the rust along with maybe using aluminum foil or something unusual like that. I'll probably stick with high grit sandpaper if I go that route. They say that after you remove the rust completely that you need to fill in the spots with something like a JB Weld epoxy then sand down very thoroughly to get a perfectly smooth finish. Which makes sense because otherwise you're gonna put fork oil everywhere or rip up all your seals (or both!). It isn't a permanent fix though and suggestions say that I should also rebuild the entire fork anyway since rust likely got into the fork oil and has screwed up everything anyway. So, that's cool...

I did try to look for ebay parts more thoroughly. At best - really expensive ($500+ for well used - still need that full rebuild treatment!). At worst - okay prices but unknown quality of parts. Many examples of forks being sold were completely bent. (What is even useful from that? It's like selling shattered pistons.) I live pretty close to a reputable motorcycle suspension shop, so maybe they'd be a good resource for sourcing aftermarket parts if epoxy or ebay just ends up being a bad idea. Maybe I'll just give them a call.

After ebay, I went online looking for new forks. Found a forum post at RRZone here (https://www.rrzone.com/forums/showthread.php/9240-CBR900RR-Replacement-Rear-Shock) that suggested a few brands. I had already went seeking Ohlins. Not gonna find anything there. Wilbers though sells replacement fork tubes and I believe that's what I need. So for $240 I'd get a new set of fork tubes. That's pretty good deal considering everything else seems insane. Pay an extra $120 and they're gold. Neat but not really necessary. What is nice is that the Wilbers USA shop is near where I live too. (Bay Area) Found the suspension stuff here: https://www.wilbers-shop.de/index.php?cl=alist&cnid=879625b18c28dc941dd4e997b10d1b92&manufacturer=amu19a4f1346a0757072421f9a2d3c9c&year=1993&catname=879625b18c28dc941dd4e997b10d1b92 They say they build custom springs set to rider weight and everything. Neat... I figure I'll need new fork springs though too. But even ohlins sells that, lol.

I doubt the rear shock is any good after 25 years of what not and however many track day events that this thing has encountered. I mean, I am literally thinking that all the nitrogen leaked out of the thing by now. I don't think they're meant to be rebuilt though. So, I don't think I could even take it off and take it to a shop to get it rebuilt since there was nothing in the service manual about rebuilding it from what I saw. Depending on the shop, I might be able to get full new suspension that's adjusted completely for my body weight - or at least springs. That'd be nice! Not holding out there though... again, just want this thing running... but I am looking at the things that are of concern after I get it to that "running" stage.

It's still important to keep an eye on the future past things like it starting. Who cares if it can start but I can't move it, right?! Haha.
These will bolt right on, and will add compression damping that the 93 doesn’t have.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/132336551623
 

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Discussion Starter #77 (Edited)
These will bolt right on, and will add compression damping that the 93 doesn’t have.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/132336551623
Hmm, that's interesting! What years are compatible with a 1993? If newer years have more options for adjustability or just a better feature set than original 1993 then I am well open to that.

Only downside with ebay stuff so far is that nothing seems to be in excellent condition. Everything has damage somewhere on it. Even those that you listed. Just not sure if the damage is noteworthy. It seems where the damage is (the marring) is where the fender would attach and so shouldn't be an issue. Although one of the bolts up top is rounded off as well... Weird.

Did some googling that finally worked: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/modifications-performance-29/front-fork-swap-guide-23751/ Useful thread for finding out what is compatible. Seems 93-97 are compatible. Another post elsewhere says 93-99. If I can get 6-7 years newer forks, that'd be nice. :) Also opens up the amount of cheaper options to go with.
 

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Hmm, that's interesting! What years are compatible with a 1993? If newer years have more options for adjustability or just a better feature set than original 1993 then I am well open to that.

Only downside with ebay stuff so far is that nothing seems to be in excellent condition. Everything has damage somewhere on it. Even those that you listed. Just not sure if the damage is noteworthy. It seems where the damage is (the marring) is where the fender would attach and so shouldn't be an issue. Although one of the bolts up top is rounded off as well... Weird.

Did some googling that finally worked: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/modifications-performance-29/front-fork-swap-guide-23751/ Useful thread for finding out what is compatible. Seems 93-97 are compatible. Another post elsewhere says 93-99. If I can get 6-7 years newer forks, that'd be nice. :) Also opens up the amount of cheaper options to go with.
93 to 97 will work. 98-99 will not. I tried it. Honda changed the brake size and offset for those years. 95-97 will get you the compression damping. And yes, those deep scratches are from a careless screwdriver used to pry off the plastic fender mounts.

I got lucky in 2014, I found a set from a 96 for my 93 and rebuilt them.

62C78388-FA28-4F48-81F0-92D40D033A5C.jpg

IMG_0236.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #79
93 to 97 will work. 98-99 will not. I tried it. Honda changed the brake size and offset for those years. 95-97 will get you the compression damping. And yes, those deep scratches are from a careless screwdriver used to pry off the plastic fender mounts.

I got lucky in 2014, I found a set from a 96 for my 93 and rebuilt them.
Presuming I can find a 95-97 set for a good price then I should go for that I guess.

What if I just get brand new fork tubes? It seems to be comparable in terms of cost. Any forks I get online will need a rebuild.
 

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Presuming I can find a 95-97 set for a good price then I should go for that I guess.

What if I just get brand new fork tubes? It seems to be comparable in terms of cost. Any forks I get online will need a rebuild.
I guess the choice will come down to cost, availability and patience. If you just get new tubes, you will have to get just 93 tubes, as the newer lowers with the compression damping adjustment are different internally.

You have some time to keep browsing the used stuff. As you mentioned before, if it doesn't run, you'll have bigger fish to fry.
 
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