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Discussion Starter #161
I revived a shitheap of a 93. Bought it for 800 dollars.

Probably put at least 6k into it.

A lot of fun


You've probably got a lot more money than me if you live in Cupertino! :grin

One thing I've noticed about my bike now that I have another CBR900RR (even though it too is modified to hell and back) is that my brake calipers are *gold* on my main bike I've been restoring. The ones on the other bike are definitely not gold... Is it possible that the former track bike (the one I am restoring) has brakes from a different year/model? I looked at photos and it doesn't seem like gold calipers come with a 1993.

It looks like it's not until about 2002 that gold brake calipers come to the fireblades.
 

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You've probably got a lot more money than me if you live in Cupertino! :grin

One thing I've noticed about my bike now that I have another CBR900RR (even though it too is modified to hell and back) is that my brake calipers are *gold* on my main bike I've been restoring. The ones on the other bike are definitely not gold... Is it possible that the former track bike (the one I am restoring) has brakes from a different year/model? I looked at photos and it doesn't seem like gold calipers come with a 1993.

It looks like it's not until about 2002 that gold brake calipers come to the fireblades.
Got a pic of them? 929,945,RC51, and 600RR calipers are are gold and will bolt up. Sometimes people painted the gun metal ones gold for an updated look. Toss up a pick and I can tell you if there painted stock or otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #163 (Edited)
Got a pic of them? 929,945,RC51, and 600RR calipers are are gold and will bolt up. Sometimes people painted the gun metal ones gold for an updated look. Toss up a pick and I can tell you if there painted stock or otherwise.
I see. Probably 600RR calipers since he took a 600RR wheel for the front at one point (the black 17" rim).

Only reason I'm worried about this is because I had planned to swap the brake pads from the parts bike I got and put them into this bike. (Would like to avoid buying stuff as much as possible!) But I feared that maybe the pads wouldn't work and didn't want to bother with the process unless I knew they'd work. Guess I could swap the calipers... just a pita.
 

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Discussion Starter #164
It could be that these are painted or something? I'm not an expert on how brake caliper paint degrades but the front left caliper paint is coming apart now. I don't know if it's even paint... it feels more like someone glued on a plastic type cover - lol. The way the paint is coming off, it feels like degraded plastic more than paint but who knows. Paint degrades weirdly sometimes. What's interesting is that the paint has a shiny metallic substrate to it. And then it's very very white metal underneath for the actual caliper. Like super oxidized or something.
 

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It could be that these are painted or something? I'm not an expert on how brake caliper paint degrades but the front left caliper paint is coming apart now. I don't know if it's even paint... it feels more like someone glued on a plastic type cover - lol. The way the paint is coming off, it feels like degraded plastic more than paint but who knows. Paint degrades weirdly sometimes. What's interesting is that the paint has a shiny metallic substrate to it. And then it's very very white metal underneath for the actual caliper. Like super oxidized or something.
Those are painted original 93 calipers. The newer style has 2 pad pins.

E01C3F8D-C3BC-4D32-B7A1-EC25736A36ED.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #166
Swapped the pads. Made a world of difference. That said, the rear seemed to have stock pads. I switched to some EBC (greens?) from the other bike. No clue if they're any good.

The rear still doesn't stop much at all. What could be the issue there? Does this bike just have a terrible rear braking system...?

Pad on the back was this I think: nissin tt2450gg

Not sure what the front pads were as they don't say anything on them.
 

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Swapped the pads. Made a world of difference. That said, the rear seemed to have stock pads. I switched to some EBC (greens?) from the other bike. No clue if they're any good.

The rear still doesn't stop much at all. What could be the issue there? Does this bike just have a terrible rear braking system...?

Pad on the back was this I think: nissin tt2450gg

Not sure what the front pads were as they don't say anything on them.

Rear brake is actually a lever that you use to keep the bike from rolling while at a stop.

It’s really not very good and/or powerful. I’ve tried very hard to lock up my rear brake, hasn’t happened yet lol
 

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Discussion Starter #168
Rear brake is actually a lever that you use to keep the bike from rolling while at a stop.

It’s really not very good and/or powerful. I’ve tried very hard to lock up my rear brake, hasn’t happened yet lol

Oh, alright. Very different than my SV650S where it's incredibly easy to lock up the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #169
Ordered some OEM parts from Babbits (honda parts house). They came in, put them on today. New fuel pump rubber mount (old one was disintegrated). New fuel filter. New secondary air filter (foam thing). Speedo wire. A bolt and a washer to hold the seat down better.

Unfortunately, the speedometer doesn't seem to be working from just putting around in the street. It didn't move an inch. I heard a bit of a rubbing sound but I think that's just the brake discs. Any thoughts on what to do here?
 

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Ordered some OEM parts from Babbits (honda parts house). They came in, put them on today. New fuel pump rubber mount (old one was disintegrated). New fuel filter. New secondary air filter (foam thing). Speedo wire. A bolt and a washer to hold the seat down better.

Unfortunately, the speedometer doesn't seem to be working from just putting around in the street. It didn't move an inch. I heard a bit of a rubbing sound but I think that's just the brake discs. Any thoughts on what to do here?
There are a few things that need to be in place for the speedo to move. The drive gear part needs to contact a special “drive ring” that’s held in the wheel itself. Make sure that there. It’s a metal ring with 2 opposing “tangs” that move the gear that moves the cable.

Make sure your cable has the “wire cable” inside it. The top part needs to be properly inserted into the back of the speedo itself. Make sure the speedo has the corresponding female end that the cable goes into to move the needle. Make sure that part actually turns the needle (you may need to simulate it by using a small flat blade screwdriver in a cordless drill to test the speedo needle itself).

Let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
Went for a 60 mile ride or so. Speedo started working. Although, it felt inaccurate but who knows... and then it stopped working accurately at all. It started wavering a lot. I'll check it out soon.


But, that wasn't even the highlight of the ride... The highlight of the ride was me going, "Man, the pulsing sensation with the front brake is getting stronger and stronger. I figured these probably need to be resurfaced but this is like... really bad." And I sometimes started feeling a really weird mushing sensation with it and a lot of pulsing and a really bad feeling overall. I looked through the triple tree and saw when I was braking that the brake caliper was coming off the rotor. :yikes:

So apparently I lost a bolt somewhere along the ride. I gotta rebolt it up. Guess I should've safety wired it all. XD The ride home was nerve wracking. Never used the rear brake so much in my entire life!
 

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Discussion Starter #172 (Edited)
Went to go take the forks apart on the bike. Stripped the allen bolts immediately. Soft as cheese.

So, there goes that... :| Not sure how I'm going to resolve this now.

I'm trying heat + metalworking essentially. (Heat up the bolt a lot, smash it with a flat punch to press it back down, smash the hex bolt back into the socket to get a tight friction fit, try to turn it... not working)

With how tight the hole is and so deeply recessed, I don't think any of my ez-out stuff is going to work. Guess I'll have to drill the head off the bolt. Super annoying.

EDIT: I definitely need a bench vice. God damn it.
 

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Went to go take the forks apart on the bike. Stripped the allen bolts immediately. Soft as cheese.

So, there goes that... :| Not sure how I'm going to resolve this now.

I'm trying heat + metalworking essentially. (Heat up the bolt a lot, smash it with a flat punch to press it back down, smash the hex bolt back into the socket to get a tight friction fit, try to turn it... not working)

With how tight the hole is and so deeply recessed, I don't think any of my ez-out stuff is going to work. Guess I'll have to drill the head off the bolt. Super annoying.

EDIT: I definitely need a bench vice. God damn it.
That's not typical. Usually the bolts are pretty strong, so my guess would be they were pre-damaged from the previous owners. I've never had any strip in my experience with them. Sorry yours are bad.

Drilling really does sound like the only option.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
Ordered new bolts and washers. $20 down the drain. Shipping is ridiculous.

I figured they were pretty normal bolts that I should be able to get from anywhere but who knows with this stuff. Until it's out of the bike, I wouldn't be able to confirm. (Even then, they'd be destroyed when they came out) Ordered new washers for them too...

Guess I'll be tackling this project in the new year since I'll be out of town.

Was really hoping I'd get this done already!
 

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Discussion Starter #176
Read this start to finish last night. Well done. Another one saved.
It's almost up to snuff. I'll be rebuilding and replacing the forks this weekend. I'm thinking of also trying to get the rear shock rebuilt. The alternative to that is to get an aftermarket one. I feel like after 25 years, this thing is not really much good anymore.

I still have to get the speedo to work 100% as it's still wobbling.
 

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Discussion Starter #177 (Edited)
Well, I finally drilled out the bolts. Tubes are apart right now. However, I noticed one of them that I took apart first has a dent in the fork tube. I don't know if this is because I accidentally had it slip and hit the concrete (very plausible...) but that's very upsetting. I tried to be careful but it just slipped... :( Oily stuff.

all this work and now the damn tube is has a minor dent in it. UGH! What do you think I should do? (Ignore it? Buy a new tube? Give up on everything?)

EDIT: It's at the top of the tube. So, it won't leak oil from here. It's just a unsightly thing and less structurally sound but whatever... :(
 

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Discussion Starter #178 (Edited)
Been taking them apart and putting one back together. Got to the point where I needed something to drive the new seal in. Tried to get some 1 3/4" PVC but no such thing exists. Tried 2"... Just a bit too big. The OD is just too big. If it was a bit thinner then maybe.

EDIT: Saw the trick about cutting smaller pipe to make it fit over... BACK TO HOME DEPOT...

EDIT2: Didn't work. Trying to make 1.5" ABS work with 1.75" just isn't working. :/ I cut it up and did some stuff but no go. Can't get that fork oil seal in straight.
 

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Well, I finally drilled out the bolts. Tubes are apart right now. However, I noticed one of them that I took apart first has a dent in the fork tube. I don't know if this is because I accidentally had it slip and hit the concrete (very plausible...) but that's very upsetting. I tried to be careful but it just slipped... :( Oily stuff.

all this work and now the damn tube is has a minor dent in it. UGH! What do you think I should do? (Ignore it? Buy a new tube? Give up on everything?)

EDIT: It's at the top of the tube. So, it won't leak oil from here. It's just a unsightly thing and less structurally sound but whatever... :(
That sucks, be careful, a crease like that may not be structurally sound anymore. Was it near where the lower clamp bolts on it?

Been taking them apart and putting one back together. Got to the point where I needed something to drive the new seal in. Tried to get some 1 3/4" PVC but no such thing exists. Tried 2"... Just a bit too big. The OD is just too big. If it was a bit thinner then maybe.

EDIT: Saw the trick about cutting smaller pipe to make it fit over... BACK TO HOME DEPOT...

EDIT2: Didn't work. Trying to make 1.5" ABS work with 1.75" just isn't working. :/ I cut it up and did some stuff but no go. Can't get that fork oil seal in straight.
Amazon I think has fork seal drivers for the 900. Under $60 I think, and 2 day shipping with Prime. If not there then Ebay, or stroke your local Honda dealer and borrow one.
 

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45mm fork seal driver $29.99 at Motion Pro right now. The ringer style is more if you want that but the traditional split collar one works just fine. Clean the seat area and lube the seal in and outside. The seal driver also will seal upper bushings and the seal circlip.
 
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