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Hey guys, first time poster, and bike owner.. got a question about my stator, now dont think I'm going into this blind, I've been reading the forums day and night.. I just wanted some reassurance actually.. I was out riding and lost all power, got it home, and started reading. Come to find out, my 1993 F2 is prone to regulator problems, no biggy.. Check the regulator, and one of the yellow wires was charred at the harness. Now I think it might be a stator issue, so I check continuity through the yellow leads and its all there. now I move to checking the yellow to the ground, and no cont, those reading are in spec, right? Does it sound like the reg to u, or do u think my stator could still be bad, even after all the readings were good.. I have a new reg coming in, and just bought a new battery, the old one needed to be replaced. can a dead battery make a regulator work harder, and blow it out.

Thank you
Chad
 

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Hey guys, first time poster, and bike owner.. got a question about my stator, now dont think I'm going into this blind, I've been reading the forums day and night.. I just wanted some reassurance actually.. I was out riding and lost all power, got it home, and started reading. Come to find out, my 1993 F2 is prone to regulator problems, no biggy.. Check the regulator, and one of the yellow wires was charred at the harness. Now I think it might be a stator issue, so I check continuity through the yellow leads and its all there. now I move to checking the yellow to the ground, and no cont, those reading are in spec, right? Does it sound like the reg to u, or do u think my stator could still be bad, even after all the readings were good.. I have a new reg coming in, and just bought a new battery, the old one needed to be replaced. can a dead battery make a regulator work harder, and blow it out.

Thank you
Chad

When you say "it's all there" you mean you have 0.1-1.0 ohms between each of the three stator phases, correct? If you have continuity then your stator is melted.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks fo the response. Yes, that's what I mean when I say its all there. what should the reading be when I test them to ground?
 

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Thanks fo the response. Yes, that's what I mean when I say its all there. what should the reading be when I test them to ground?

You want an open circuit to ground.
 

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ok, thanks blade. I'll double check everything again when I get home from work in the morning and give you the exact numbers. I'm sorrry for the dumb question, but when you say open circuit to ground, what exact number should that be on my meter? I do know what the term open circuit means, just not sure what number indicates it. Stupid, I know.
 

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ok, thanks blade. I'll double check everything again when I get home from work in the morning and give you the exact numbers. I'm sorrry for the dumb question, but when you say open circuit to ground, what exact number should that be on my meter? I do know what the term open circuit means, just not sure what number indicates it. Stupid, I know.
An open circuit means the numbers won't change when you touch the probes to it. Just the same as holding the probes in your hands not touching anything - that's also an open circuit.
 

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Well me in my infinite wisdom decided to put the meter on the bumper of my wrangler and forget about it. Long story short, it fell off and I ran the damn the thing over. Going to buy another one when I get my reg in, I'll keep you posted. Thanks again blade
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, it ended up being the regulator, replaced it and everything works. I ran the bike for a few mins, and the volts stayed above 13 the whole time. Thanks blade
 

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Well, it ended up being the regulator, replaced it and everything works. I ran the bike for a few mins, and the volts stayed above 13 the whole time. Thanks blade

For a few minutes - all that tells you is the battery is charged up.
Is the voltage rising or falling?
 
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