[JNSRacing]

Max, are you sure you don't have an issue with one or both of the throttle cables sticking sometimes? With the bike off, when you twist the throttle to wide open, and then let go, does it snap closed quickly?

 

[Max02]

No as far as I checked it no cuz when I put the carbs back I made sure the cables r instaled correctly cuz I know they cuz trouble but ther were kind of snaping slow cuz of cables not being routed properly so I adjusted them under the tank so that they operate smoothly and after that I lubed the throttle bar and it got better as far as I am sure it doesn't snap real quick but goes back nice n easy .

 

[1997cbr600f3]

HI, I'm new here and have been working on a 1997 cbr600f3 purple yellow I bought several carbs off of ebay and had to return it because my luck..its a california version and the carbs were different. I am tired of asking and hunting down a california carb and just found a clean 1998 (most likely 49state). Can I just use the carb off that one? will my bike have any issues? I just want to run the bike and worry about removing all that emission stuff later but afraid the 49state carb may not bolt up and work. thank you so much for posting this! its so hard to find it anywhere discussed! I just want to ride and start this beautiful bike! Ken

 

[bladeracer]

HI, I'm new here and have been working on a 1997 cbr600f3 purple yellow I bought several carbs off of ebay and had to return it because my luck..its a california version and the carbs were different. I am tired of asking and hunting down a california carb and just found a clean 1998 (most likely 49state). Can I just use the carb off that one? will my bike have any issues? I just want to run the bike and worry about removing all that emission stuff later but afraid the 49state carb may not bolt up and work. thank you so much for posting this! its so hard to find it anywhere discussed! I just want to ride and start this beautiful bike! Ken

First question has to be why do you need to replace the carbs?
I would just try them and see how they go.
It's possible the engine may run less than optimally as I think the Cali cams are different also, but worst case, pick up a set of non-Cali cams as well.

 

[1997cbr600f3]

Bike had been sitting for about 2 years varnish rusted out the tank and gumed up the carbs, tarnished the needles so I really didn't want to sit for hours cleaning and rebuild them. I had no idea they even made 2 different type bike for USA until I compared the carb I bought from ebay that it was differnt(ca model carb has additional nipples &hoses coming out).i did not know the cams could be different too. When you go to ebay some sellers are aware of the Cali models but they don't have a clue what's really different so they tell you return it If it doesn't work. It's rare to find cal model parts because I can't find any. Lol. Now I found this guy who's selling a 1998 f3 49 state with blown engine so I was thinking of taking the gas tank and carb and putting it on my bike hoping it could work.

 

[bladeracer]

Bike had been sitting for about 2 years varnish rusted out the tank and gumed up the carbs, tarnished the needles so I really didn't want to sit for hours cleaning and rebuild them. I had no idea they even made 2 different type bike for USA until I compared the carb I bought from ebay that it was differnt(ca model carb has additional nipples &hoses coming out).i did not know the cams could be different too. When you go to ebay some sellers are aware of the Cali models but they don't have a clue what's really different so they tell you return it If it doesn't work. It's rare to find cal model parts because I can't find any. Lol. Now I found this guy who's selling a 1998 f3 49 state with blown engine so I was thinking of taking the gas tank and carb and putting it on my bike hoping it could work.

Get the Haynes manual or the OEM manual, they list the differences.
Cali cams have 1.5mm less lift on both cams and less duration.
Other than the pollution hoses I doubt the carbs are enormously different - try them and see how she runs.

 

[xholaday40x]

I'll answer all your questions mainly by having you view the pics

The reason you are confused is because your rats nest is a 3 part mod
1: Air selenoid removal
2: Pair Mod
3: Evap canister removal

SO:

The thread you read wasn't wrong... he just used a diagram that is hard to understand... You did it right in the above pic... you basically did this:

Here's the Pair mod... that will get rid of that second selanoid you were wondering about:

LASTLY don't forget to throw out all the charcol canister crap (the third hose on the air selanoid... which you can completely throw out

I have personally done all three on my bike and it doesn't hurt your performance the air selanoid crap only works below 12mph... the Pair mod is stricly an emmission waste of space thing... same for the carchol canister crap. If you ground the pink wire that used to plug into the air selanoid it will tell the bike that the valve is open so you won't have any problems

So for the first mod in this post what do I need to do about the solenoid do I need to bypass it or just unplug i

 

[moneymikeGBW]

Thank you so much!!!! I have had my CBR 600 F3 for two years now. Changed fuel filters, spark plugs, and basically all electrical components , yet nothing worked. Brought it to the Honda dealership twice with no results. The bike kept bogging down over 5000 RPMs but not in neutral. I used this mod today and when I hopped on for a test drive I couldnt detect any issues with the bike. Created this account just so I could verify this works. CBR owners rejoice!

 

[LDH]

Wait a minute... I'm not sure which method the 97 F3 uses for a PAIR mod, but that pic shows 2 different types of PAIR sytems on Honda's

The one on top of the valve cover is the newer style using the square shaped plates

The older style is the small metal piping that inserts next to the headers on the front of the engine block

You will not have both types on the same engine

Additionally the line on top of the valve cover with the blue line that it says "Plug" looks to be the breather return line. If you plug that off the crankcase pressure can blow the valve cover gasket resulting in a really nasty oil mess.

 

[IanDoohan]

Wait a minute... I'm not sure which method the 97 F3 uses for a PAIR mod, but that pic shows 2 different types of PAIR sytems on Honda's

The one on top of the valve cover is the newer style using the square shaped plates

The older style is the small metal piping that inserts next to the headers on the front of the engine block

You will not have both types on the same engine

Additionally the line on top of the valve cover with the blue line that it says "Plug" looks to be the breather return line. If you plug that off the crankcase pressure can blow the valve cover gasket resulting in a really nasty oil mess.

Yeah I'll agree with this somewhat. It looks like the OP is referencing the actual PAIR block off plates to be used on the exhaust Air Suction Valves, which clearly will not fit on the exhaust side of the head. Those ports are small and almost triangular. Those two black plates shown need to be put on top of the cylinder head, where in the picture of the head you can see what looks to be like a reed valve that's exposed. Plugging the crankcase vent is definitely a :nono: but all it does is vent into the airbox anyway, so keep that vented/connected.

Giving it a further look, that picture showing the PAIR valve in the cylinder head cover is actually from an F4i, a good eye will note the throttle bodies. The F3 will not have that style cylinder head, and will not have those square PAIR valves.

Good call LDH:thumb:

 

[Gunk]

I know this is an old thread, but I'm thinking of doing it as it sees to solve the flat spot between 5000 & 7000 rpm which my bike is experiencing.

Has anyone got a link for the blanking plates?

 

[EchoWars]

I know this is an old thread, but I'm thinking of doing it as it sees to solve the flat spot between 5000 & 7000 rpm which my bike is experiencing.

Has anyone got a link for the blanking plates?

Looks like most are simply fabricating them.

 

[Gunk]

Am I right that if I just connect Tube 5 to hose 10 and leave everything in situ, I’ll bypass the solenoid?

If this is the case and it runs fine I could then just rip it all out

 

[Gunk]

I’ve got the answer to this off the CBR forum, I’ve ordered a couple of these (14mm for reference)

We’ll see if it does the trick, interesting that most track bikes have all this crap removed.