Was his battery KNOWN to be good? Not just assumed it would be ok?

 

His battery was fine the dash lighted up and fuel pump primed, after i pressed the button to start the engine it turned over but before the engine could fire, that tick happened and all power went off, no horn, dash, lights or anything. I feel something is shorting out

 

It basically killed two batteries, i connected the battery's 2 terminals with a wire and it didn't even make a spark!

 

Just because the lights come on doesn't mean the battery has enough to juice to crank the starter motor. What voltages do they show across the terminals?

 

That's the thing, the lights don't come on, it cranked then did this tick sound and EVERYTHING went off. Happened 2 both batteries. The battery is basically dead, i connected a piece if wire to both terminals and it didn't even spark once.

 

Did you check the voltage in both batteries?

In a dead/dying battery it will light up dash, signals, headlights but may not have enough juice to start on the button.

The fact that you are able to jump her from the car but not the batteries sounds like the issue is with the batteries.

I would check voltage and charge if u have a charger to rule out the batteries or find the culprit before worrying about the stator, RR or electrical issue.

 

No i didn't check the voltange. The thing is it lights perfectly and primes the pump but as soon as the button to run the engine is pushed, eveything will go off. I don't get what it can be. But i'm guessing since the battery doesn't spark when i short it with a wire then the voltage is extremely low. And if i jump it from the car, it will keep running as long as it is connected, once i take one of the wires off, it shuts off immediatly.

 

Have you ever had the start button off before. The 'short' could be with the button?

 

I always keep the cut off switch on run and just turn off the engine with the ignition. The Button that is causing the problems is the crank button.

 

Yes that's what I mean. The start button not the kill switch. Have u taken that off and looked at the wiring in there?

 

No i haven't, but it worked fine when i used it while jumping the battery from the car.

 

If there was anything wrong with the wiring or something shorting out wouldn't it have shown when i was jumping the battery from the car?

 

Which makes me think it's the battery

 

lus1: Somehow I don't think that'll be accepted as the answer though.

 

I really hope so guys i am just really worried about buying a new one and frying that one too. Anyways thanks again sky and surteez your help was much appreciated

 

I just realized something really weird, when i turn the ignition on now nothing works but if i keep the kill switch off and i keep holding the start button down, the dash comes on just like it would when i turn the ignition on.

 

Check your wire harness at the plug conectors as these cause a short if corroded.

However, u have 2 dead batteries don't you? So it will be very hard to diagnose an electrical problem with a dying battery.

 

I still think a new/charged battery will do the trick. If not we will solve it for you.

 

Ok thanks a million surteez, i'm just frustrated cause i had a crash and everytime i fix something up, something new pops up so it really gets on my nerves.

 

Yeah I know the feeling mate.

Until you can rule out the battery, that's the first thing you should look at when any electrical issues crop up.

 

I have an '06 1000RR and had the same trouble a couple years after purchase. I was able to jump start the bike when I first started having trouble, but driving home after a jump start, the dash started cutting out on me, the headlight would turn on and off, and the engine would cut out and then start back as I was driving down the road. I consulted the Honda dealer and they said it was the battery. There was an "open" (not a short) between two cells so the chagring circut was not connected, which caused the bike to cut out.
When you jump started the bike using a car battery, you completed the circuit and the bike will run. Once you removed the jumper cables, the circuit opened again and the bike will die. In the old days, you could start a vehicle and then remove the battery completely while it was running and it would remain running. Newer vehicles are not this way. They need a completed circuit to remain running.
Your uncle's battery may not have had enough cold cranking apms built into it to turn over your bike which may have caused his battery to appear to be weak on your bike. It may have even drained his batery enough to cause damage to it.
My thought, buy a new battery before you start troubleshooting the charging or wiring system on the bike. That could take days and lots of $$$.

Hope this helps.

 

Ok thanks alot for the help, this really makes sense. I will get myself a battery and let you know what happens but hopefully everything works out