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Thanks Doc!

Lastly, as far as i know the forks have never been serviced, what all should i do for a general service? should i buy a service kit or just seals and dust caps? just curious thanks. most work i can do myself with research, just want to make sure i don't miss something this when i actually do this job.
 

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Dust and oil seals and new fluid is generally all that is needed. You do want to look at the slider bushings inside the forks for wear. They have a Teflon coating on them. When you can see wear through the coating you should replace the bushings. You don't need O-rings and such, if that is what you are asking. Clean all that old aluminum debris and oil gunk really well. Don't contaminate the fork with bits of paper towels ( you know).. Basic stuff mostly. Make sure to properly bleed the air from the need fluid and measure the air gap. Funny thing that suspension fluid viscosity numbers are somewhat erroneous, meaning they all seemed to be measured differently. Google suspension fluid viscosities and you will see. One manufacturers 5 wt is anothers 3 wt.. Weird ****.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Thanks Doc!

Lastly, as far as i know the forks have never been serviced, what all should i do for a general service? should i buy a service kit or just seals and dust caps? just curious thanks. most work i can do myself with research, just want to make sure i don't miss something this when i actually do this job.
Since this is a job you don't plan on doing again anytime soon replace the inner and outer bushings along with new fork seals, dust caps and Honda ss-8 fork fluid. Also get new crush washers for the bolt in the bottom of the fork. You don't want a leak there. Use plenty of brake parts cleaner to clean every part of the fork to remove the old fluid.
 

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I know this is an old post but I have a 954 with 6k on it. I purchased it with 4+k, anyway, my weight is 210 in season and up to 220 out of season. I just order RaceTech springs 1.1Kg, gold valves, All balls fork kit bushing and all, All Balls seals, All balls Roller taper bearing to triple, I know the bike doesn't need all this as it's like new but if I'm going in Right? Oh! and an Elka rear shock set up for my weight and riding style. For the real question, I see in the pic the anodized cap nut (blue) is gouged from socket how can I do this procedure without damaging the anodized parts with tools?.
 

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Loosen the fork cap and lower the upper fork tube. Now holding the bottom with one hand and upper with your other hand turn the fork down at an angle and drain the fluid out of the fork. Be patient here and allow as much fluid as possible to drain out of the fork to keep from making a mess. Replace the fork cap and lightly tighten. (My process is different from the service manual and does not require any special tools.)
Any way to remove this without damaging it. Also need some advice. like I said in the post above, I purchased Racetech springs and gold valves, in an email the told me to make sure I use 5-weight oil. but I'm reading all over this site that 10-weight is where it's at especially for a 210-215lb rider? And one more question why don't you loosen al the parts to the cap while its's still on the bike and locked down in the triple clamp? referring to pic, just asking I have rebuild a lot of things but never forks. I'm not correcting the one who created the write-up, just asking? ( referring to pic) http://www.fireblades.org/forums/attachments/articles-honda-fireblade/46666d1294601023-cbr-954-fork-removal-disassembly-rebuild-installation-cimg2681.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #108
I know this is an old post but I have a 954 with 6k on it. I purchased it with 4+k, anyway, my weight is 210 in season and up to 220 out of season. I just order RaceTech springs 1.1Kg, gold valves, All balls fork kit bushing and all, All Balls seals, All balls Roller taper bearing to triple, I know the bike doesn't need all this as it's like new but if I'm going in Right? Oh! and an Elka rear shock set up for my weight and riding style. For the real question, I see in the pic the anodized cap nut (blue) is gouged from socket how can I do this procedure without damaging the anodized parts with tools?.
The cap is soft metal so its hard to not leave a mark on it. Maybe using a larger socket with a rag over the cap may reduce the chance of marks on it. I put Driven pre-load adjusters on the cap so you can't see the marks on the cap. I have another write-up on here for the gold valves. The stock ones are tricky to get out and building the valve stack requires a lot of measuring very thin shims to get it right for your weight. I didn't have the Race-tech fork compressor back when I did this on my 954 but would highly recommend it to make removing and installing the fork cap much easier.

I never changed the stem bearings. A good damper like GPR or Scotts is good investment for anyone owning a 954.

Any way to remove this without damaging it. Also need some advice. like I said in the post above, I purchased Racetech springs and gold valves, in an email the told me to make sure I use 5-weight oil. but I'm reading all over this site that 10-weight is where it's at especially for a 210-215lb rider? And one more question why don't you loosen al the parts to the cap while its's still on the bike and locked down in the triple clamp? referring to pic, just asking I have rebuild a lot of things but never forks. I'm not correcting the one who created the write-up, just asking? ( referring to pic) http://www.fireblades.org/forums/attachments/articles-honda-fireblade/46666d1294601023-cbr-954-fork-removal-disassembly-rebuild-installation-cimg2681.jpg
In the first post I recommend loosening the fork cap before loosening the lower triple clamp. You could also take the bolt out of the bottom and let the fluid drain out that way. I used Honda 10w when I first rebuilt the forks and just changed the springs but went with Motorex 5w when I redone the forks with gold valves for better flow. The air gap is the key. Too much and forks will feel soft and too little too harsh.

I could not tell much difference with just the stiffer springs but the gold valves made a huge improvement. With the right tires the front end feel was great.
 

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I owned the 954 in 2002 purchased it brand new. It was my first new bike. Having some Exp with the bike I purchased a damper before I drove out to pick it up, installed it right at the sellers house and road home. LOl. Looking at the price of the Race Tech fork compressor I believe I will fab one up. good recommendation though for sure. So there is no reason why I can't remove bottom 8 mm and loosen cap before I remove the fork. That's good news. I believe I will try to find the perfect fit socket so I don't eff up the anodized nut. Even though I owned the 954 I only owned it until 05 traded it in on a 05 1k, then went to 08 1k, But I always missed the 954 It has a personality and character that the other litter bikes don't and handles like its on tracks. I remember when I got the 05 I had to retrain myself again. with that said I never upgraded the first one just road street/ track and then turned it in for a later model. As for measuring out the valves I have a good digital caliper with post measurement. that should work fine right? I think for anyone that is not confident enough to install the valve I believe you can just send the valving to Race Tech for them to install. Not sure on that though I believe I read that somewhere. From reading you res pounce to me I"m taking it that you are recommending Honda 5 weight oil if I'm going to install the valves. These thread have been a big help. as for tires and upgrades so far this is were I'm at with it. Tire Dunlop Q3 190/55/17, GPR Damper, Front Braided brake line, HH Pads, 15t 45t 520 conversion sprocket EK chain, Elka rear shock, Race Tech fork springs, Gold valves, Rear sets (not the china ones), Jitsu bolt on pipe. Track body kit, Only use when heading to track. Upgrades needed. Full exhaust, Power commander, quick shift. Thanks for your reply and advice it's much appreciated.
 

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My valves, springs, bushings and seals came in today. Here is a bench fork vise I just fabbed up. It should work for both clamping the cartridge or the inner tube. the vise has a 1/4 rubber insert to prevent scratching or damage to the fork tubes. Thought I would post it in case someone would like to use the idea. I will be fabbing up a fork compressor next. Thinking of using threaded rod, not sure yet. I will post a pic once I have them all painted up!
 

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My valves, springs, bushings and seals came in today. Here is a bench fork vise I just fabbed up. It should work for both clamping the cartridge or the inner tube. the vise has a 1/4 rubber insert to prevent scratching or damage to the fork tubes. Thought I would post it in case someone would like to use the idea. I will be fabbing up a fork compressor next. Thinking of using threaded rod, not sure yet. I will post a pic once I have them all painted up!
if cleaning and polishing the valves, be careful when you put them back together and tighten the allen style bolt which holds the stack together..it snaps very easy and they are hard to find, trust me I know lol!!
 

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I know it's old, but want to keep all relevant info together in one thread. Kinda stupid to start a new one if you ask me.

On the '29, when I get down to separating the tubes, the inner bushing won't just slide pass the outer bushing and it took quit a bit of work to get them apart. I wondering if anyone knows if this is normal? Maybe I missed something in the thread already. Am I missing the "trick" that should make this easy? Or just beat the hell out of it till I get it apart? Yes, I know you have to be careful, but still, I feel like I'm beating the hell out of them. :idunno:. I did put heat to it, but wonder if there might be something else.

I did read somewhere that forks older than say 2003 or so took more work to get apart. I'm just curious what others have ran into out there.

As always, any help is greatly appreciated, thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #114
I know it's old, but want to keep all relevant info together in one thread. Kinda stupid to start a new one if you ask me.

On the '29, when I get down to separating the tubes, the inner bushing won't just slide pass the outer bushing and it took quit a bit of work to get them apart. I wondering if anyone knows if this is normal? Maybe I missed something in the thread already. Am I missing the "trick" that should make this easy? Or just beat the hell out of it till I get it apart? Yes, I know you have to be careful, but still, I feel like I'm beating the hell out of them. :idunno:. I did put heat to it, but wonder if there might be something else.

I did read somewhere that forks older than say 2003 or so took more work to get apart. I'm just curious what others have ran into out there.

As always, any help is greatly appreciated, thanks
Fork cap and damper are only difference between 929 and 954. Once you are ready to separate the fork you have to slide them closed then pull hard in opposite directions and it make take several times to get them to come apart. Don't be gentle, it takes a hard smack for them to come apart.
 

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Lol, i read your post and yes, we do sound alike ;)

The top of the bottom cartridge, is shaped and look the same as the bottom of my homemade fork damper holder. So when you put the tool inside the tube and they meet, the tool will be able to hold the bottom cartridge in place when I´m trying to torque the bottom bolt.

Before the tool was made, i was like "f*ck this, i´m using the impact wrench to torque the bolt" (it should only be torqued to 35Nm) so i thought it may damage something, i don´t know. But i manage to get hold of my self and made this tool instead.
Hi,
i have the same problem as you had. i work in a machine shop and i will make the tool. I dont suppose you have the dimensions handy do you?
 

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Hi Folks,

Old thread but it has been a great help thus far. When you take the forks apart, do you need to dismantle the damper assembly if you aren’t making any changes from the OEM springs? I have a spring compressor but the two pins that fit into the plastic housing on the top of spring don’t fit and I can’t easily compress the spring to take the assembly apart.

I’m not sure that it needs to come apart if I’m sticking with stock springs?

Jay.
 
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