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Tried twice to the letter second time I tried just in case I did it wrong but still no joy hence servo buddy but yes really do get that some people get a kick out of doing them selfs all saves ÂŁÂŁ for more mods lol

Cool, so we have a number of successes and failures. If I had a better understanding of electrical magic I might be able to work out where it's possible to get differing results from the same instruction set. Hopefully somebody smarter than me can work it out.
For reference, what does the Buddy sell for in the UK?
 
Also, with this mod, there is really no reason to go with a full exhaust unless you are looking at the weight savings. With a slip on, you basically have a full exhaust. I doubt aftermarket flows any better.

Just replacing the muffler does not magically turn an OEM system into an aftermarket system. Put a full Akrapovic system on your bike and tell me if you notice any difference ;-)

Any of the good aftermarket systems will most certainly flow "better", for top end performance. The OEM system, regardless of the valve position, flows "better" for general day-to-day rideability.
 
I think I paid ÂŁ25 from eBay but to buy new ÂŁ50 crazy as you say but I got rid of all of it valve servo flapper the lot i did see something that go's in place of the housing bit for valve in exhaust but can't find out who makes them if I can find pic to put up I will
 
I could (maybe) go through the schematics of the servo-valve itself and figure out what it is doing. I have tons of training and schooling in electrical design, theory, troubleshooting, and repair. If anyone can toss my lazy arse a link to the servo schematics I'll let you know how it can be done =P
 
I think I paid ÂŁ25 from eBay but to buy new ÂŁ50 crazy as you say but I got rid of all of it valve servo flapper the lot i did see something that go's in place of the housing bit for valve in exhaust but can't find out who makes them if I can find pic to put up I will

You probably mean the HASS Eliminator, another complete waste of time and money.
 
Sure, take the bulb out of the MIL light =) I'll find the schematics at some point or another and figure out how it all works. I have an electrical engineering background so I should (in theory) be able to come up with something that works at least 1% of the time =)
 
Weird how I applied direct power to the servo motor and it moved....
It was throwing code 35 and since the DIY thingy threw code 34..... I decided to take apart the servo motor to check.

I just don't get it. the motor moves, but when i wired it back up again, it decided to continue throwing 34 even after a mil reset. And the motor didn't move when it's on the bike. the plastic gears are all in great condition.

Maybe i'm running into a different issue than most people? Perhaps i've got a harness problem?

Either ways. I was fed up. Put some electric tape over the light. Race wired the servo. removed the motor.

I ran some resistance tests on the motor, which i forgot the exact numbers already.... But I know they were not the same as the resistors this diy called for........ which would explain the code 34

i do miss the power..... i think at this rate, i will have to invest in a full exhaust and PC3 by next summer...
 
i do miss the power..... i think at this rate, i will have to invest in a full exhaust and PC3 by next summer...

What do you mean you "miss the power"?
There shouldn't be any power loss.
If you ride in the midrange then set the valve to that position, if you ride in the topend then set it there.
 
I ride A LOT. 300-500km a week. Mostly commuting so midrange. But I do open her up at least a dozen times a week and that's when I really notice the top end lacking the power it once had. I can't change the valve position every other day.....

does having the servo give better power throughout compared to a full exhaust with pc3?
 
I ride A LOT. 300-500km a week. Mostly commuting so midrange. But I do open her up at least a dozen times a week and that's when I really notice the top end lacking the power it once had. I can't change the valve position every other day.....

does having the servo give better power throughout compared to a full exhaust with pc3?

No, the HTEV would give better power through the midrange for sure.
A good full system will make the best topend power, much better than the stock system..
 
Wouldn't a full system still up the midrange a little anyway? I know it shifts the peak power and toque further up in teh rev range, but I thought regardless it would still add peak power and torque over stock?
 
Wouldn't a full system still up the midrange a little anyway? I know it shifts the peak power and toque further up in teh rev range, but I thought regardless it would still add peak power and torque over stock?

Depends on the system, if you want maximum top end power then you will have less midrange, and vice versa.
Torque is irrelevant.
 
Thanks guys. I have been getting mass amounts of info from these forums(prior RC51 SP1). This being one of my more favorable mods yet. Holding the electronic experience to comprehend what he had laid out here. I used the exact capacitor, and wired nearly 6 resistors to get within the 1% tolerance. Well after installing a full Akrapovic system I needed a fix for that light. As anal as I am this method suited me best. Thanks so much for taking the time to share this more than helpful mod, tremendously cleared my mind of the second most annoying LED on the 954rr. The first being the low Fuel light.(massive ADD for the randomness) +1
 
Well...at this point..I'm going to delete the F1 light of opening the HTEV to be full opening exhaust set and air box.

Do I need to have PC3r or USB to be set as full exhaust map and taking out cables..then the F1 light will not on, Am I right?:)
 
Well...at this point..I'm going to delete the F1 light of opening the HTEV to be full opening exhaust set and air box.

Do I need to have PC3r or USB to be set as full exhaust map and taking out cables..then the F1 light will not on, Am I right?:)
Nope, the FI light will always be on unless you do the servo delete or leave the servo in and just disconnect the cables. No two ways around it. Remap will smooth out the powerband and compensate for the HTEV being full open. :thumbd:
 
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