How to clear a FI code on 929/ 954 and most honda motorcycles:
-Turn ignition OFF
-then bridge the terminals of the service check connector (as pictured).
-turn the ignition ON
-then disconnect the bridge wire from the service check connector.
-When the wire is removed the FI light should come on for approximately five seconds, during which time the bridging wire must be pluged back in.
-The warning light should start to flash when the bridging wire is reconnected, indicating that all the fault codes have been erased.
However, if the light flashes twenty times then the memory has not been erased and the procedure should be repeated.
-Turn off the ignition then remove the bridging wire.
-Check the operation of the warning light ( in some cases it may be necessary to repeat the erasing procedure more than once )

 

So that's how to solder

 

Excellent write up.

 

For the 600rr and 1000rr servo removal same process as above except the wire are these colors:
-hook the negative of the capacitor to the GREEN wire
-hook the positive of the capacitor to the 220 ohm resistor and 4.7kohm resistor
-hook the other end of the 220 ohm resistor to the RED wire
-hook the other end of the 4.7k ohm resistor to the BROWN wire

 

Made a smaller version for myself since this demonstration version was kind of bulky.

 

Awesome article and great to see a write up like this. Can you please let us know where you bought all the parts? Is this something that radio shack carries or we would order it all online?

 

Radio shack would work, note the packages in his pics are from radio shack. If you had the time to wait for online shipping you could probably find the stuff online for less. But you would be saving like $2.

Kudo's to Matt this write up is excellent! Before I got to Fireblades I almost spent $60 on the ebay servo delete glad I didn't now.

 

Anyone else having problems with this working? I finally got around to doing the Servo delete tonight and I did this method with the exact same parts he got from Radio Shack.

I have been getting code 34 so I figured this would fix it but so far no luck. I even swapped out the resistors to see if maybe I installed a bad one and that didnt help.

I installed this, did the ECU Reset procedure, and after the reset I'm still getting this code.

I have a question, during the ECU Reset procedure, am I supposed to do something at the end of the reset while the red light is blinking? After the reset procedure, the red light keeps blinking 100+ times and never stops. Am I supposed to wait until after the red light stops blinking to confirm it went correctly? Or do I just turn the key off while its blinking? I just turned the key off while it was blinking but my code 34 was still there.

 

Can anyone help me why I'm still getting a CODE 34 ? Am I doing the ECU reset correctly? I tried 2 different resistors and I have the capacitor hooked up correctly (negative and positive). Maybe I got a bad capacitor?

Could CODE 34 be something else???

 

hmm worked for me... not sure what the 100+ blinking is about. I'd say you haven't successfully cleared the code. Or you're having a seperate problem or code.

 

sooooo ... still no easy resolution here im taking it? and what is supposed to be done with the 2 cables that go down to exhaust?

 

here's what i got right now going on:

I opened airbox and removed all the flapper stuff with all the gold screws. Removed the springs too. Everything is out. (picture #1). Now the cable that goes up through the bottom of the airbox is still there. Just not connected to anything.(photo 2). Some people say leave it and dont worry about it, others say remove it and plug hole. Others say remove it and do nothing with hole.????

Next I have removed the exhaust valve controller thingy all together. Unplugged it and removed the 2 cables from it going down to exhaust pipes. (pic #3). Isnt there a better way to "trick" the computer and not have to install resisters and capacitors, etc etc? I dont mind leaving this mounted and having plug connected. But just no cables. Or is that a problem?

Last i have the 2 cables that are still connected to the flapper on the exhaust pipes down below. The cables are connected at exhaust pipes but they dont go anywhere. I know that if I pull EITHER cable to its max (by hand), the flappers inside pipes are wide open. So, as you can see, one of the cables is pulled all the way out so the flappers are open. (pic 4). Isnt there a better way to keep these flappers wide open? Get that HAAS piece maybe? are those even still around?

If I start up the bike as is, it throws the 34 code and idles very low. I can rev it and it sounds fine (except for lower exhaust rattle sound) ... but starts sluggish and idles low and depressing. wtf is the best solution? Get a full pipe?

 

anybody? im ripping out the servo motor and installing a home made servo buddy. my only question is what are we supposed to do with the cables that go to the flappers in the pipe at bottom? how do you know if the flappers are closed or open or if they will vibrate closed?

 

There are no "flappers", it's a simple rotary valve.
Remove the cables.
Use wire to tie the valve in one of the three positions, I recommend you actually try it in all three to determine which suits your riding best.

 

The point at 180 degrees. It's worth noting that the mid-point (0 degrees) also "flows" 100%, but the difference is in how the exhaust gasses get mixed.

 

Great pic! I experimented a lot after my servo broke and ended up rotating mine to the the last position where the flat part is at the top of the exhaust. I ride mostly track, and that position is best for high rpms (as noted) . On mine, in the first and second positions, the bike seemed to chug at WOT, sounded like it was running on three cylinders and had no power past 7000 rpms, which makes sense now!
I safety wired it to hold it there and I have no worries now. I haven't done the plug fix yet, so I still get the FI light and codes, but it doesn't bother me that much.
I found that the bike runs much stronger if you get a fuel management system to help smooth out things. I put a Bazzaz with the self tuner on mine and it's a beast now! :thumb:

 

Also, with this mod, there is really no reason to go with a full exhaust unless you are looking at the weight savings. With a slip on, you basically have a full exhaust. I doubt aftermarket flows any better.

 

well for one, it vibrates and makes sounds that make me wonder if its my motor making the sound, or the valve vibrating.

the weight 'savings' i dont care about

but im just not sure how to "set" my valve to be wide open or at the 180 mark or whatever

 

Still having error 34...did not work for me... :\
Whats the best position to set the valve?
I notice that the valve eliminator is a set of 4 direct hoses like its shown im position 2.

Help needed
Thanks

 

Did you reset the computer after doing the servo delete? Just fixing the HTEV in place will not turn the light off. The best position will depend on the type of riding you do mostly. I found that rotated full open worked best for me. You lose a bit of low end, but it pulls strong in the upper revs.

 

Your talking about the 2nd or 3rd position?
About the servo plug e made a reset to ECU but the error remains...

 

3rd position. 7k-12k. You may have a defective component in the plug. The light is really just an annoyance, I taped over mine.

 

I made 2 plugs with different components...that light is hurting my feelings!hahaha
Now I dont know how to set 3rd position cause Im not able to see I know that now is set to one of the sides for 2nd,3rd position is middle?
You made a plug and the MIL still blinking?


Thanks for the help

 

3rd is just cranked all the way open against the stops, which I think was counter clockwise. I never made the plug, as the light doesn't bother me that much and I just came across this fix last year. I have been riding with it for two years now.

 

I see a few people having troubles with this. So am I sadly. So I was getting a code 35. My procedure went like so. Removed the door inside of the intake box removed the Servo cut the plug. Set the exhaust to the 180 degree position. Setup my capacitor negative to green positive with the 220 ohm on red and 4.7k ohm on light green\teal\torquise whatever color wire. Setup everything reset light and now I receive a code 34. Anyone got any suggestions?

 

This method is crap! If you notice in the original post the resistors are gold to the wires for the "test". Then for the final solder step the resistors are red and purple to the wires. Who is this guy? You shouldn't trust someone that doesn't pay attention to detail. Should have put that $10 toward the servo buddy.

 

Do you mean that you tried it and it doesn't work?

 

What do you think the servo buddy is? It's this exact package in a neater shell.

Two posts, and both pointing people towards an extremely overpriced product, me thinks you're selling them?