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i just call it the flappers. i have taken one apart before and i know what it looks like inside.

i just never really understood what people meant by "there's 3 positions" .. its just a big wheel inside that rotates.
Its not a butterfly valve, its a rotary valve with only 3 valid positions (0 degrees, 180 degrees, and 270 degrees). If you've actually taken one apart you'd know this, surely?
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Its not a butterfly valve, its a rotary valve with only 3 valid positions (0 degrees, 180 degrees, and 270 degrees). If you've actually taken one apart you'd know this, surely?
Bladeracer knows more about these bikes than anyone. Be grateful he's trying to answer your question:thumb:
 
Bladeracer knows more about these bikes than anyone. Be grateful he's trying to answer your question:thumb:
I wasn't replying to Bladeracer. I was replying to Jmartin. (I've added the quote to my post for clarity).

If you look at my reply, I'm actually backing up BR ...........
 
Its not a butterfly valve, its a rotary valve with only 3 valid positions (0 degrees, 180 degrees, and 270 degrees). If you've actually taken one apart you'd know this, surely?
I have taken one apart before. And from what i remember, you can pull a cable out 100% and its wide open, and then if you pull the other cable it rotates around and its wide open again.

my question really is: If one were to install a FULL system with no valve, the exhaust would flow 100% .......... so if the valve is left in the bike with a slip-on, what valve position most resembles being wide open like a full system?
 
The point at 180 degrees. It's worth noting that the mid-point (0 degrees) also "flows" 100%, but the difference is in how the exhaust gasses get mixed.

Image
 
The point at 180 degrees. It's worth noting that the mid-point (0 degrees) also "flows" 100%, but the difference is in how the exhaust gasses get mixed.

Image
Great pic! I experimented a lot after my servo broke and ended up rotating mine to the the last position where the flat part is at the top of the exhaust. I ride mostly track, and that position is best for high rpms (as noted) . On mine, in the first and second positions, the bike seemed to chug at WOT, sounded like it was running on three cylinders and had no power past 7000 rpms, which makes sense now!
I safety wired it to hold it there and I have no worries now. I haven't done the plug fix yet, so I still get the FI light and codes, but it doesn't bother me that much.
I found that the bike runs much stronger if you get a fuel management system to help smooth out things. I put a Bazzaz with the self tuner on mine and it's a beast now! :thumb:
 
Also, with this mod, there is really no reason to go with a full exhaust unless you are looking at the weight savings. With a slip on, you basically have a full exhaust. I doubt aftermarket flows any better.
 
Also, with this mod, there is really no reason to go with a full exhaust unless you are looking at the weight savings. With a slip on, you basically have a full exhaust. I doubt aftermarket flows any better.
well for one, it vibrates and makes sounds that make me wonder if its my motor making the sound, or the valve vibrating.

the weight 'savings' i dont care about

but im just not sure how to "set" my valve to be wide open or at the 180 mark or whatever
 
well for one, it vibrates and makes sounds that make me wonder if its my motor making the sound, or the valve vibrating.

the weight 'savings' i dont care about

but im just not sure how to "set" my valve to be wide open or at the 180 mark or whatever
You do have to secure it in place or will rotate under the exhaust pressure, though I'm not sure if mine rattled. It really shouldn't rattle as there are graphite bushings that hold it in place inside the pipe. It does sound pretty bad if you don't have it set right, and will make you think you have engine problems.
The other option is to pull it completely out and cap the hole. I pulled mine out completely when I installed my auto tune and mounted the exhaust sensor there.
 
Did you reset the computer after doing the servo delete? Just fixing the HTEV in place will not turn the light off. The best position will depend on the type of riding you do mostly. I found that rotated full open worked best for me. You lose a bit of low end, but it pulls strong in the upper revs.
 
I made 2 plugs with different components...that light is hurting my feelings!hahaha
Now I dont know how to set 3rd position cause Im not able to see :D I know that now is set to one of the sides for 2nd,3rd position is middle?
You made a plug and the MIL still blinking?
:(

Thanks for the help
 
3rd is just cranked all the way open against the stops, which I think was counter clockwise. I never made the plug, as the light doesn't bother me that much and I just came across this fix last year. I have been riding with it for two years now.
 
I see a few people having troubles with this. So am I sadly. So I was getting a code 35. My procedure went like so. Removed the door inside of the intake box removed the Servo cut the plug. Set the exhaust to the 180 degree position. Setup my capacitor negative to green positive with the 220 ohm on red and 4.7k ohm on light green\teal\torquise whatever color wire. Setup everything reset light and now I receive a code 34. Anyone got any suggestions?
 
This method is crap! If you notice in the original post the resistors are gold to the wires for the "test". Then for the final solder step the resistors are red and purple to the wires. Who is this guy? You shouldn't trust someone that doesn't pay attention to detail. Should have put that $10 toward the servo buddy.
 
This method is crap! If you notice in the original post the resistors are gold to the wires for the "test". Then for the final solder step the resistors are red and purple to the wires. Who is this guy? You shouldn't trust someone that doesn't pay attention to detail. Should have put that $10 toward the servo buddy.

Do you mean that you tried it and it doesn't work?
 
This method is crap! If you notice in the original post the resistors are gold to the wires for the "test". Then for the final solder step the resistors are red and purple to the wires. Who is this guy? You shouldn't trust someone that doesn't pay attention to detail. Should have put that $10 toward the servo buddy.
Umm Just FYI.... The Resistors do not have any polarity... You can place them either gold or red stripe to the wires or to the capacitor and it will not have any effect. Now if you did that with the capacitor, you would have an issue as they have polarity. That's why it states to make sure the polarity is correct on the capacitor.

Also if you have a hard time believing me, here is a reference: Resistors- Tutorials

Has anyone tried using a variable capacitor in place of the 470uF? I'm thinking since my light changed from a 35 to a 34, it may need more or less.
 
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